Estremadura & Ribatejo
The best culinary experience in central Portugal begins insanely: an epic cow's, sheep's and goat's cheese cart, arranged regionally, along with black…
Must-see restaurants in Estremadura & Ribatejo
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
You may have seen it in Lisbon, but this heralded pastelaria (pastry shop) hails from Alcobaça, sitting front and centre across from the monastery hawking…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
If the monks had not pigged out at the Alcobaça monastery (their gluttony was eventually noticed), they would have flocked to this wonderful, elegant-but…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
Leiria's most enjoyable spot comes courtesy of friendly wine-lover Miguel, who opened a restaurant with his sister and his girlfriend, combined their…
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Óbidos
Ditch the tourist onslaught in Óbidos for this village charmer 5km away in Usseira, where Joaquim and sister Angela combine restaurant skills honed in…
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Óbidos
With the cheery Andre, his family and a young, enthusiastic staff at the helm, the hospitality is oh-so Portuguese (read: happy and generous) at this…
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Nazaré
Many locals think that this is the only place in Nazaré to eat grilled sardines. Enough said. When sardines are out of season, though (read: frozen), you…
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Nazaré
This exceptionally friendly family affair has been running for 50-plus years, serving high-quality seafood in a pair of snug but prettily tiled dining…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
In an utterly memorable position on the water, this classic seafood place scores top marks for location: the dining room is right over the waves above São…
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Peniche
It's just you and the sea out here at Cabo Carvoeiro, 2.5km from town at the tip of the peninsula. As you gaze out at the Atlantic from the windy rooftop…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
Batalha's best, a bustling place serving up great modern Portuguese fare – seafood rices for two (€28 to €65), fresh catches of the day and a bulhão pato…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
It's worth seeking this place out for an atmosphere full of good cheer without any ostentatious piety. It's a comfortably rustic sort of place serving…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
This lovely spot, located on a hill behind Alcobaça in Bemposta, is an understated, modern, wooden-and-stone cabana with country-garden surrounds. It…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
This recent Leiria transplant occupies an old horse stable on a farm near Centro, where it serves an extensive – if pricey – 'Flavours of Portugal' buffet…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
A mere block and a half from the main square but feeling like a million miles away, Estrela (don't call her 'Doña!') offers just two dishes per day at her…
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Óbidos
Behind the striking church of Senhor da Pedra below town, this simple white-tiled eatery (the one on the right as you look at the row of restaurants) is a…
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Peniche
This 'new-school tavern' is a reconstituted 'old-school tavern' where fishermen bought wine and groceries (plus it was the first in the area to have a…
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Óbidos
In an austere castle dining room with wide-eyed countryside views through medieval ramparts, the restaurant at Pousada do Castelo is one of Óbidos' few…
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Peniche
There's no sugarcoating what's going down at this wildly popular restaurant inside Residencial Maciel II – an American couple (with Portuguese and Russian…
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Tomar
This charming spot is part cafe, part wine bar, and celebrates all things Lusitano (Portuguese). This is the place to come for doces conventuais (convent…
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Tomar
One of Tomar's fun experiences, where old meets new. Housed in a former adega (winery), the eatery is lined with wine vats. As grain was once here too, it…
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Óbidos
A pleasant hum, appealing aromas and colourful plates sum up this stylish, contemporary spot. There's a cosy line of tables down one side, a kitchen on…
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Nazaré
A modern tasca not content with following the crowd, this pleasant Sítio hotspot does elevated classic tapas along with a fun menu of Portuguese-bent…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
This unexpected gem is the perfect cure to the Bacalhau Blues. Tucked away 1km or so outside the tourist zone in a residential complex, the flavours and…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
Not content to follow the crowd, contemporary Manhãs bet on rattling the culinary scene in Fátima and its modern, internationally tweaked takes on…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
'The Father of Chickens’ sits in splendid isolation right on the fabulous sands of Praia Velha, 1km north of São Pedro de Moel. Specialities include arroz…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
The slickest of the seafood restaurants, with plastic designer-style chairs, white surrounds and a contemporary feel, this smart place comes recommended…
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Tomar
At this charming backstreet eatery you can partake in the elegant dining room or the breezy, intimate courtyard below. Speciality, well-presented fish…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
A modern tasca adorned with photos of VW vans on the walls, this upper village hotspot is a great place to escape tourists and the menus that cater solely…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
After raging success in Alcobaça, the Punjabi owner of this excellent Indian restaurant snagged an even more intimate space in Leiria in the heart of the…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
In the small village of Alcaria, this welcoming and very genuine old-school petisqueiria (place selling huge portions of petiscos, or tapas) with its red…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
Some 3km southeast of Porto de Mós, this delightful (if touristy) place with high ceilings, stone walls and a roaring fire in the brick oven serves…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
A Swiss owner-chef runs the kitchen, and his friendly Portuguese wife runs the floor. This pleasant, unpretentious spot on the quay has a slightly…
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Nazaré
One of the most authentic experiences around, this simple place on a backstreet square serves good-value seafood, including wood-grilled fish and…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
In São Martinho do Porto's upper village, not far from the church, you'll find this nondescript little cafe that has served up big, sweet flavours since…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
Portuguese beer on tap, wi-fi, live music and DJs and comfy couches on an outdoor deck overlooking the pine-tree-filled park are the big draws at this…
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Tomar
Just off Tomar’s main square, this family-friendly local hang-out features warm, attentive service, good traditional food and ridiculous (read: more-than…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
This rustic spot, with traditional paraphernalia from rural workers, is nothing fancy. But it serves up honest fare of great grills with excellent-quality…
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Nazaré
This cosy, if touristy, place specialises in cataplana (a bouillabaisse simmered with herbs, tomatoes, onions and wine steamed in a domed copper dish),…
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Estremadura & Ribatejo
Close to Buddha Eden is this appealing restaurant in the nearby village. Mãe d'Água does confident, modern Portuguese fare in a contemporary setting…
