If the monks had not pigged out at the Alcobaça monastery (their gluttony was eventually noticed), they would have flocked to this wonderful, elegant-but-not-snobby spot. It's clocked up 70 years and for good reason. It boasts a superb atmosphere (traditional trinkets minus the kitsch), superquality fare from the kitchen and ultraprofessional service. The owners know their cuisine. As do the regular locals.
Don't miss the frango na púcara (€10), a tasty traditional convent recipe comprising chicken baked in a clay pot, or the well-done couvert (cover; appetiser brought to the table) offerings.