A mere block and a half from the main square but feeling like a million miles away, Estrela (don't call her 'Doña!') offers just two dishes per day at her simple, five-table tasca. There's no menu (and no English!) but Estrela is as sweet as her pudim (not crotchety like so many at traditional restaurants) and runs through the dishes slowly.
Think baked chicken, bacalhau espiritual (baked salted cod with cream, onions, carrots and cheese) and other home-cooked deliciousness. 'Meals' include starter, beer or wine, dessert and coffee. At dinner, she does a changing menu of petiscos, all revealed verbally. Go here now. Cash only.
