Ditch the tourist onslaught in Óbidos for this village charmer 5km away in Usseira, where Joaquim and sister Angela combine restaurant skills honed in France and Switzerland to create a modern Portuguese destination worth shuffling your itinerary for. The decor is full of village character (walls stacked with memorabilia, bric-a-brac, arts and crafts). The food? At once classic but creative.
Wild prawn rice, monkfish and shrimp lasagne, vegan feijoada – there is a lot to love here. Finish off with Joaquim's Portuguese tiramisu!