O Crispim

It's worth seeking this place out for an atmosphere full of good cheer without any ostentatious piety. It's a comfortably rustic sort of place serving house wine in wooden tankards, and whose speciality is grilled meats – Iberian pork, and succulent veal from the north of Portugal (Mirandela), flame-grilled on the back patio. Prices are by weight, but are reasonable.