Tromba Rija

Estremadura & Ribatejo


This recent Leiria transplant occupies an old horse stable on a farm near Centro, where it serves an extensive – if pricey – 'Flavours of Portugal' buffet (fairly uncommon in Portugal). Start with eight or so cheeses and a vast salad and starter spread before moving onto a few select hot dishes per day (pork ribs, duck confit, salted cod etc).

Sometimes the presentations are off-putting (codfish dunked in a vat of olive oil, for example) but it all tastes better than it looks and it's nice to watch them transform the main course spread into a well-presented plate (they plate the main courses, not you). Desserts, digestifs, dried fruits and nuts and port are included, but wine and other standard drinks are not. Do not follow Google Maps here – you'll end up lost (and walking here isn't recommended – it involves some dangerous motorway manoeuvring).