A first-time guide to Mallorca

Alexis Averbuck is the author of the upcoming edition of Lonely Planet's Mallorca guidebook. Here she shares the latest tips from this Balearic island.

Mallorca is a perennial holiday favorite, bouncing around in people’s imaginations or in travel stories. But with its reputation come the usual clichés – beaches, parties, and sun-soaked getaways. Yet, the reality of this Spanish island, the queen of the Balearics, is refreshingly rich and diverse. It’s a place that invites you to delve deeper, embracing the island’s varied history and radiant culture along with fantastic azure coves, delicious meals using the island’s abundant ingredients and resplendent works of art and architecture in its towns and villages. 

Mallorca’s thrilling range of landscapes – which include the UNESCO-recognized Serra de Tramuntana mountain range – mild climate and many experienced outfitters create an ideal outdoor destination. Walk mountain trails and spend the night in a serene hermitage. Scale limestone cliffs, go canyoning and cliff jumping. Cycle through sprawling vineyards. Spot wildlife in natural parks. Snorkel and dive, or bask in the sun before lunching on the seafront.

Curious what you can expect? Read on to find out more before your first visit to this timeless island.

When should I go to Mallorca?

The summer months – especially July and August – are the island’s busiest, when Mallorca becomes a vibrant playground for visitors from across Europe. Expect warm seas, clear skies, but when the temperatures soar so do the room rates. It’s also the peak fiesta time. High-spirited festivals and parades include music festivals like the Festival Chopin in Valldemossa at the Carthusian Monastery where Chopin stayed.

If you're seeking a more tranquil experience, visit during the shoulder seasons – from Easter to early June or in September and October. These months offer mild weather, fewer crowds, and an ideal climate for hiking, mountain biking, and canyoning. October is usually the wettest month, though, so bring rain gear. Festivals include the Festes de la Verema, which celebrates the grape harvest. For an unforgettable cultural experience, don’t miss the Semana Santa (Easter Week) processions, particularly the moving Davallament (Descent from the Cross) in Pollença.

Palma is fantastic year-round, but in winter, outside of the capital, many restaurants and tourist-oriented hotels close, however you'll have the island's trails, beaches and sights to yourself.

How much time should I spend in Mallorca?

Mallorca is brimming with lovely villages and encircled by gorgeous beaches and calas (coves), all calling for go-slow exploration. Sure, you could bomb in for a long weekend, basing yourself in either Palma or at one of the beaches, depending on your interests. During that time, you’ll be able to have an art and gastronomy day in Palma, being sure not to miss its majestic cathedral. Or combine contemporary art and craft galleries in sandstone Santanyi with swims along the southeast’s sweeping beaches like Platja des Trenc and biking to the sparkling calas in Parc Natural de Mondragó. 

However, if you can spare a week to ten days, you’ll have the time to fully experience the island’s incredible diversity. You’ll be rewarded with time to really explore the sublime Serra de Tramuntana, where you can hike parts of the historic Ruta de Pedra en Sec stretching from Andratx to Pollença, stopping off in stone hamlets like Deià, an enclave of artists and writers, and swimming at nearby coves, like Cala de Deià. Shop abundant outdoor markets in the interior, from Santa Maria de Camí to Inca and Artà. Or set yourself a goal of comparing sandy stretches and azure seas, including the family-friendly Badia d'Alcúdia where you can snorkel, kayak or learn to kitesurf.

Is it easy to get to and around Mallorca?

Palma de Mallorca airport is a quick 9km from the city centre and is one of the busiest airports in Europe in summer. You can also ferry to Mallorca, usually arriving at Palma or Alcúdia from Barcelona, Dénia, Ibiza, Valencia, Mahon/Ciutadella (Menorca) and Toulon (France).

In high season getting around by bus or train is straightforward and reasonably priced. A good network of intercity buses cover most of the island. The buses and three of Mallorca's four train lines leave from Estació Intermodal in Palma. The vintage train to Sóller leaves from a smaller station alongside. Buses are comfortable and air-conditioned, but the frequency and number of routes reduce dramatically in winter.

In low season, or to travel away from main destinations and travel hubs, car hire is easiest. Roads on Mallorca are generally in good condition and main routes well signposted. Rental cars (usually with a manual transmission) are available from the airport or larger resorts. You have to be 21 or over and they usually require a credit card. Rates vary enormously by season – book as far ahead as possible.

Palma is cycling-friendly. You can use a bike-share or hire one from a shop, and cycle the seafront. You’ll also see sports cyclists all over the island, but especially practicing in the Tramuntana mountains.

Top things to do in Mallorca

Reward yourself with cool swims after coastal walks

A Mallorca highlight is to tramp down pine-cloaked hillsides for a dip in the cala below or at powder-soft beaches nearby. Super-memorable access points include the Sa Foradada rock formation, a treat when the setting sun paints the Mediterranean in aquarelles (you can also reach Sa Foradada by boat). Or head to the Península de Llevant, a less-visited natural park where you can hike between Cala Torta, Cala Mitjana, Cala des Matzoc and Sa Font Salada, deciding which is your favorite. But really, pick any part of the coast and there is a nearby walk to the water – you can’t go wrong.

Revel in Palma’s glorious culture: from art and architecture to nightlife

Fantastic Palma’s ancient walls surround the casco antiguo (old quarter) crammed with historic landmarks (don’t miss its stain-glass filled cathedral), grand mansions and hidden patis (courtyards). Galleries and museums like Museu Fundación Juan March and Es Baluard beautifully display both historic and contemporary art. [Also spend a few hours marveling at Joan Miró's genius in his ateliers and gallery at Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró in neighboring Cala Major.] And Palma’s nightlife and restaurant scene hops. Or simply pull up a chair on one of its many squares, drink in hand, and watch the world go by.

Get a birds-eye-view from a castle or sanctuary

Mallorca’s many hills are often topped by ancient castles or peaceful mountain hermitages and monasteries, and on a clear day you can marvel at spectacular island-wide views. At Santuari de Sant Salvador, 5km southeast of Felanitx you can even overnight in a stylishly converted monk’s cell at Petit Hotel Hostatgería Sant Salvador. Other top spots include Santuari de la Mare de Déu des Puig near Pollença, Ermita de Santa Magdalena near Inca and Santuari de Nostra Senyora de Cura near Randa. For a castle view, ascend the narrow medieval streets of Artà to one of the island’s most intriguing church-castle complexes.

Eat, drink and be merry 

Farming and fishing and the resulting cooking, drinking and dining are a major source of pleasure in Mallorca, going to the very heart of the island’s identity. Trying local dishes and tipples should top your to-do list. One of the best ways to explore the cuisine is to go market-hopping across the island. Some of these enthralling markets with their lively stalls also have tapas bars and ready-made food counters, like Palma's daily Mercat de l'Olivar and Mercat de Santa Catalina. The oldest market on the island is on Wednesdays in Sineu – it’s been going for over 700 years!

And don’t forget the wine. The main centre of Mallorca's wine production, the sleepy sandstone town of Binissalem makes a chilled-out base for touring Binissalem-Mallorca DO vineyards to the south. You can visit vineyards and tasting rooms, or tread grapes and get into the big grape-throwing battle during autumn harvest celebrations.

Travel back in time at Mallorca’s ancient ruins

Dive into Mallorca’s ancient past, examining somnolent Bronze Age megaliths at sites from the Talayotic civilisation, like Ses Païsses and Capocorb Vell. They make the island’s Roman ruins at Pol·lèntia seem modern by comparison. Some of the Talayotic ruins, like those near Costitx and Sencelles are little-visited, giving a very DIY explorer vibe.

My favorite thing to do in Mallorca

I love Mallorca’s western mountain range, the Serra de Tramuntana, and always stay for a while, crisscrossing its hilltops and lingering in its villages. One of my favorite ways to cross the mountains is to chug along on the vintage train from Palma to Sóller, taking in the views of the wide open sea as we emerge from tunnels to zigzag down to the Golden Valley below. I also love to drive one of the island’s great road trips on the Ma10 from Banyalbufar to Monestir de Lluc. I stop frequently to gaze across the sheer cliffs from old watchtowers like Torre des Verger then continue along the road as it unfurls east around two dazzling patches of liquid blue, Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs – starting points for hiking trails (another favorite in these mountains). And don’t miss the turn off for the wild, corkscrewing plunge to Sa Calobra – and Cala Tuent with its lone tree in the middle of the beach.

How much money do I need for Mallorca?

Mallorca is a pricier island in summer, when all things from lodging to meals and car hire, are at a premium. You can find better off-season deals, allowing you to have a relatively luxurious trip at more reasonable prices. 

• Monastery stay per person: €25-80 (US$27-85)

• Palma midrange hotel per double: €180-280 (US$190-300)

• Resort midrange hotel per double: €90–180 (US$95-190)

• Finca stay (farmstay) per person: €80-300 (US$85-320)

• Catedral de Mallorca entry €10-25 (US$11-27)

• Catamaran tour of Palma's bay: €80 (US$85)

• Kayak/SUP hire: €30 (US$32)

• Bus ticket to the beach: €3–6 (US$3.25-6.50)

• Car rental per da:y from €30-130 (US$32-138)

• Glass of wine: from €3 (US$3.25)

• Coffee: €2 (US$2.20)

• Pint of beer: €2–7 (US$2.20-7.50)

• Ice cream: €4 (US$4.30)

• Ensaïmada (Mallorcan pastry): €2 (US$2.20)

• Lunch (menu of the day): from €12 (US$12.80)

• Dinner in a traditional restaurant: €45 for 2 people (US$48)

• Wine-tasting: €18–65 (US$19-69)

Tipping is usually optional, though bear in mind that many minimum-wage workers are in the hospitality industry. In restaurants, many Spaniards leave small change, others up to 5% or 10%. It’s rare to tip in bars and cafes – some people round-up for taxis.

Reserve ahead for high-end or special eateries

If you want to splash out at one of the many excellent fine dining restaurants where Michelin-starred chefs put a modern twist on Mallorcan classics, reserve well ahead (for example: Palma's Dins Santi Taura, Marc Fosh or Adrián Quetglas). This applies, too, to favorite rural restaurants (Miceli with farm-fresh fare in the Tramuntana foothills, or nearby Ca Na Toneta) or eateries with exquisite sea views (like the cliffside Béns d’Avall near Deià with its quality cooking based on permaculture produce). 

Learn a bit of Spanish, and even better, some Mallorquin

Two languages are spoken widely in Mallorca: Spanish and Mallorquin (similar to Catalan). While Spanish is more common in large tourist resorts, Mallorquin is spoken by islanders. Sure, you can certainly get by with English, too, but why not greet and thank people in Mallorquin? You’ll usually be rewarded with a warm smile. Start with hello (bon dia),good afternoon (bona tarda), please (per favor) and thank you (gràcis).

Travel responsibly on this popular island

In recent years, island residents have become vocal about the negative effects of mass tourism in Mallorca and the Balearics. Do your part to be a lower-impact, helpful visitor.

Self-catering? Shop organic at the capital’s Mercat Ecològic de Palma, and at the weekly markets all over the island. You can help champion organic farming like APAEMA does. Visit member farms such as Ses Terres for an immersive experience and to purchase products directly. Learn about sustainable beekeeping at Mel Caramel, olive-oil production at Son Moragues or cheesemaking at Formatges Burguera. You can find other local sustainability initiatives and farms online at Mallorca Preservation Foundation.

In 2021 Mallorca banned single-use plastic. This does not yet extend to plastic bottles, so support organisations like Cleanwave and refill your own water bottle. Use their free water- bottle refill points throughout the island, too.

Initiatives such as Mallorca Calm showcase slow-living and sustainable tourism organizations (like Amics de la Terra with made-in-tramuntana.org) and organic, zero-waste shopping, making it easier to do your part. Save the Med is tops for marine preservation through education, beach clean-ups and plastics reduction.