A guide to Chile’s Atacama Desert

Have you ever dreamed of what it’d be like to beam yourself up to a nearby planet? Well, Chile’s Atacama Desert may be the next best option. With its desiccated salt flats, inhospitable wildlands, and vast lifeless landscapes that NASA uses to test instruments for outer space, this is one of the most rugged environments on Earth. 

It might sound empty and lifeless but this thin coastal desert, squished between the Pacific Ocean and Andes Mountains, is riddled with oases that burst into life – both along its fertile river valleys and on the semi-arid Altiplano plateau, thousands of feet above. Add to the mix the planet’s tallest volcano, highest geysers, oldest mummies and clearest skies, and you’ve got a recipe for some of Chile's best adventures.

Basing yourself in desert hubs such as San Pedro de Atacama or Copiapó, or Arica and Iquique on the coast, you can fill days with outdoor adventures, from high-altitude hikes and mountain-biking through rocky valleys to 4WD tours and stargazing in light-pollution-free skies.

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Here's how to make the most out of your first visit to the Atacama Desert.

Where is the best base for exploring the Atacama Desert?

For most international tourists, San Pedro de Atacama may as well be a stand-in for the entire desert. This quaint little oasis town near the regional mining hub of Calama draws the vast majority of foreign visitors, and it's not hard to see why – the moonscape desert of the Valle de la Luna begins right outside the town limits. 

San Pedro is the obvious base for exploring the high deserts, with a periphery of puffing volcanoes, ethereal moonscapes, steamy hot springs and dreamy desert-chic hotels (see Explora, Tierra or Awasi for inspiration). There’s also a strollable downtown filled with Andean restaurants, crafts vendors and adventure outfitters – all tucked behind humble adobe facades. From here, it's easy to roam out into the desert by tour, rental car, or even on foot or by bicycle.

Can I visit the Atacama Desert from the coast?

The Atacama’s biggest cities all lie along the Pacific Coast, some distance from the desert's most famous sights, and see far fewer international tourists. However, it's well worth considering a detour to the coastal section of the desert – Iquique and Arica are both world-class surfing hubs, and Arica also draws archeology buffs hoping for a peek at Incan ruins or the world’s oldest mummies, which reside in the nearby Azapa Valley.

Antofagasta, a bit further south, is the most cosmopolitan city in the Atacama Desert with a string of high-rise buildings that give it a bit of a Miami-in-the-desert vibe. Bahia Inglesa, even further south, is perhaps Chile's most picturesque beach resort, with sugary white sands shelving into clear turquoise waters.

Is it easy to get into and around the Atacama Desert?

There are no direct flights to the Atacama Desert from abroad. You’ll first need to fly into the capital, Santiago, and then connect onward by air to Calama (for San Pedro), La Serena (for the Elqui Valley), or Copiapó,  Antofagasta, Iquique or Arica (to explore the coast). Bus connections are great between all of these hubs, but to really get out into nature, you’ll need to either book tours from each city or rent a car.

It rarely makes sense to rent a vehicle in Santiago and drive all the way to the Atacama Desert, as the distances are long and gas is expensive. Instead, most people rent a car at a northern airport upon arrival. In general, the roads are quite good – that is, until you get up onto the Altiplano, at which point they can deteriorate rapidly into sand traps. Many high-altitude roads are also riddled with potholes and hard to navigate; carrying extra gas, food and water supplies is a must.

Backpackers often travel to the Atacama Desert by bus or on tours from neighboring countries. Common points of departure include Salta (Argentina), Tacna (Peru), La Paz (Bolivia) and Uyuni (Bolivia). If traveling by bus from Santiago, expect a journey of up to 24 hours to reach San Pedro.

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When should I go to the Atacama Desert?

Unlike the rest of Chile, there’s really no bad time to visit the Atacama Desert. In fact, the coastal cities of northern Chile are known as places of “eternal spring” as temperatures barely budge from month to month. Inland, however, winters are notably cooler than summers. Of course, this is a desert, so no matter what time of year you visit, expect temperatures to drop considerably as soon as the sun drops.

The southern hemisphere summer, from December to March, brings warm, dry weather that is ideal for exploring the desert and mountains, but the sights can be busy. This is also the best time to explore the coast, as the cool ocean temperatures are more tolerable. However, sporadic rains on the Altiplano can make some roads impassable, and some destinations – including Bahia Inglesa, Iquique and San Pedro – are overrun by domestic tourists in January and February.

Conversely, the peak season for stargazing is during the chilly winter, from June to August. Daytime temperatures at lower altitudes can be quite pleasant, but you’ll need a heavy jacket for the evenings, particularly if you’re headed up on the Altiplano, where it can be below zero with snow on the ground. For great deals and even greater weather, visit during the less-crowded shoulder seasons from September to October and April to May. 

How long should I spend in the Atacama Desert?

Some people pay a fleeting visit to the Atacama Desert, staying just a day or two en route to or from Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia or other stops in South America, but you'll see more if you linger in this remarkable landscape. Using San Pedro de Atacama or the coast as a base, 3 days will give you time to see local sights, but plan on 5 days or more if you plan to take trips deeper into the desert and explore the Altiplano. Staying longer will also give you more time to acclimatize to the altitude. 

Top things to do in the Atacama Desert

The Atacama Desert is one of Chile's top destinations for outdoor activities, so bring suitable clothing for exploring – and a sense of adventure! 

Roam into the Altiplano

Many of the iconic images you find of the Atacama Desert actually come from the Altiplano, some 4000m above. This high-altitude plateau is a wild sweep of turquoise lagoons, llama-filled plains and sizzling salt flats.

San Pedro is the most common departure point for trips to the Altiplano, but to get off the beaten path, try the parklands above Copiapó or Arica. The former is a base for adventures to Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces, home to flamingo-filled lagoons, multi-hued hot springs and a panorama of 6000m-plus peaks. 

The Altiplano above Arica, meanwhile, is riddled with dozens of Indigenous Aymara hamlets such as Putre, which is the best place to acclimatize for journeys into wildlife-rich parklands nearby, including Parque Nacional Lauca and Reserva Nacional Las Vicuñas.

Pro tip: Be aware of the effects of altitude when visiting the Atacama Desert. Spend a few days at altitude to acclimatize before attempting physical activities such as hiking or cycling, and stay hydrated and minimize your alcohol intake to help your body adjust. Watch for symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), such as headaches, nausea and dizziness; if you feel unwell, be ready to descend quickly. 

Explore the desert landscapes around San Pedro de Atacama

San Pedro appears as a splash of green amid the sands and coffee-colored landscapes of the Atacama Desert. Adrenaline junkies will find endless opportunities for adventure here, from desert tours by 4WD, bike or on horseback to hiking expeditions and mountaineering trips to climb 6893m Ojos del Salado, the world's highest active volcano. Tour agencies in San Pedro can help with all the logistics.

If you prefer to explore under your own steam, several valleys with otherworldly rock formations can be reached from San Pedro with a rented car or bike, including the Valle de La Luna, the Devil's Throat and the Valle de la Muerte.

Further afield are the dramatic salt flat landscapes of Laguna Cejar, where you can swim in hypersaline waters, and Laguna Chaxa, which draws flamingos and other birdlife. Then there are the surging geysers of El Tatio – gushing from a volcano-ringed plain that bubbles with geothermal activity. 

Culture-focused activities include visits to the 12th-century ruins of Pukará de Quito, a center for the Lickan Antay people, and the ancient adobe dwellings of Aldea de Tulor. In town, there's the Museo del Meteorito and Taller de Cerámica Amerindio, where potter Fernando Alfaro produces work inspired by traditional ceramics. 

Discover surprising activities across the Atacama Desert

Beyond hiking and mountaineering, other popular activities include fat-biking, off-roading, paragliding (particularly in Iquique), and sandboarding – which requires a level of fitness but can be a fun experience for adventurous kids. Yet, it’s stargazing that is one of the Atacama Desert’s greatest lures. San Pedro de Atacama and the Elqui Valley are top hubs thanks to the presence of major international observatories.

Fans of ancient rock art should check out the Geoglifos de Pintados near Iquique, where khaki-colored mountains are blanketed in geoglyphs that rival those in Nazca in Peru. Nearby, you also find the Gigante de Atacama, the largest prehistoric anthropomorphic figure in the world, a gargantuan 86m high.

Those into more recent history should check out the dozens of ghost towns on the pampa, including UNESCO-listed Humberstone, whose lavish opera house and sprawling pulperia (trading post) provide a telling snapshot of how the so-called Nitrate Boom from the 1880s to 1920s transformed Chile into the nation it is today.

Where should I stay near the Atacama Desert?

San Pedro de Atacama is, far and away, the most common base for tourists visiting the Atacama Desert, with a wide range of accommodations that appeal as much to dust-covered backpackers as well-heeled jet setters, from inexpensive hostels to luxury desert hotels. However, don't overlook exploring the region from other hubs.

While it’s technically just south of the Atacama proper, the Elqui Valley is a rival to San Pedro that also has a week’s worth of attractions, with plenty of memorable hotels, boutique spa lodges and glamping options. Sand and sea lovers make a happy home out of Bahia Inglesa, while surfers prefer Arica or Iquique.

Copiapó is among the more appealing cities in the middle of the desert, with a good clutch of hotels and day-trip access to both serene beaches and stunning Altiplano landscapes. Tiny towns with big appeal include Pica, a desert oasis near Iquique that grows the limes used in pisco sours, and Putre, a high-altitude Aymara village near Arica on the overland route to Bolivia.

Wherever you stay, book hotels ahead for the busy southern hemisphere summer, particularly in January and February.