Even with an increase in development in recent years, Isla Holbox retains the feel of the Yucatán coast before the era of mass tourism. Dallas Stribley/Getty Images
Isla Holbox (pronounced “holl-bosh”) still retains the feel of the Yucatán Peninsula’s coastline before the arrival of mass tourism in the 1970s.
Until a couple of decades ago, only a handful of local fishing families inhabited the island. And while there has been a noticeable rash of development in recent years, it remains a sand-streets, palm-trees-and-golf-carts kind of place.
Sure, you can now find yoga studios, vegan-friendly restaurants and trendy bars here. But the town’s proximity to wilderness and laid-back aesthetic set it apart from other destinations in the region. The star attractions are natural setting and gently shelving beach, lined with chaise-filled bars.
Perched at the tip of a promontory of forest-covered, fractured islands in the northeast corner of Yucatán, Holbox is still only accessible by boat. It’s this relative isolation that has preserved much of the settlement’s charm, and which makes it stand out.
When should I go to Isla Holbox?
November through March are cooler, less humid months to visit Isla Holbox. During this time, the region sees little rain and calmer seas, although accommodation prices peak during the Christmas and spring-break seasons.
Lower prices attract visitors to resorts along the Quintana Roo coastline during the hurricane season, between June and November. During this time, there’s often more rainfall, and temperatures climb to a balmy 86°F (30°C).
Yet Holbox is a riskier destination at this time since buildings on the island lack the sturdiness of the bigger resort hotels, and there’s a genuine risk of getting stranded during a hurricane, given that the only way to and from the town is by boat.
Nonetheless, nature is at its best during this time. The bioluminescence is resplendent during the summer months on either side of a new moon, and the tiny organisms responsible for the phenomenon are what attract whale sharks to the region between May and September.
How much time should I spend in Isla Holbox?
It depends on your desired pace – for Isla Holbox a place to slow down and mellow out. The ideal spell is a two- or three-night break, which factors in the travel time to get to get here, allowing room to fit in a spot of snorkeling, a boat tour around Punta Mosquito and plenty of lounging on the beach.
Is it easy to get in and around Isla Holbox?
It takes a bit of planning to get to and from this isolated spot. The ADO bus company runs multiple daily services between the main bus stations in downtown Cancún and Mérida to the dusty town of Chiquilá, on the mainland.
From there, you’ll take either the Holbox Express or the 9Hermanos ferry from the pier one block north of Chiquilá bus station to Isla Holbox (ticket booths for both are located right outside the bus station). Holbox Express runs hourly departures on the half-hour between 6:30am and 9:30pm, while 9Hermanos runs hourly on the hour.
Once on the island, it’s only a half-mile’s walk from the ferry terminal to the main beach, passing through the heart of Holbox town on the way. If you’re staying in accommodation away from the center, the main way to get around is by golf cart, which comes in taxi or rental form.
Top things to do in Isla Holbox
Discover wildlife in mangroves and lagoons
While you might not realize it in Holbox town, the island is still one of the wildest stretches of Quintana Roo’s coastline. To discover why, join a wildlife boat tour.
Trips to Tres Islas balance nature and snorkeling, with stops at a cenote, a remote island beach lapped by clear water and a mangrove forest fringing the Yalahau Lagoon.
An alternative tour to Punta Mosquito focuses on seeking out wildlife in the nearby channels and lagoons, such as snakes, crocodiles and flamingos.
Swim with whale sharks
Sharing this slice of the Gulf of Mexico with the world’s biggest fish is one of the most memorable experiences you can have in all of Mexico.
Whale sharks return to these shores every year between May and September to feed on the plentiful plankton, hoovering up and filtering vast quantities through their gaping mouths.
But don’t let their name put you off: these are true gentle marine giants, some reaching lengths of 32ft (10m) (the largest on record topped a whopping 61ft / 18.6m) yet posing no danger whatsoever.
On your excursion, it’s important to avoid wearing sunscreen in the water, and to keep a respectful distance (be sure to seek out tour operators who uphold this rule). Follow these rules, and you’ll find that snorkeling in the waters where whale sharks feed provides one of travel’s finest interactions with nature.
Bask on the beach
Looking out over the Gulf of Mexico, the north shore of Isla Holbox is fringed with sugar-fine sand, which gives way to a gently shelving, azure Caribbean Sea.
This is all the enticement needed for a lazy day soaking up the natural beauty of it all. Like the whale sharks in the water, hundreds of seabirds flock here to feast: lie back on a chaise lounge with a cocktail to watch the pelicans dive-bombing for fish.
Take a golf cart as far east as you can go for quieter stretches of sand – just watch out for crocodiles in the brackish lagoons nearby.
Take in the night lights
Nights on Isla Holbox are as laid back as the days. Although you’re not going to find the pulsating club nights and rowdy bars common to places like Cancún, Tulum and Playa del Carmen, there is still a fun nightlife scene on the island.
The beach clubs usually stay open until late, while there’s live music at bars around town and occasionally in Parque Central, two blocks south of the main beach. Places to check out include Tribu Bar and Capitán Capitán Beach Lounge.
My favorite thing to do in Isla Holbox
If you’re like me, you might occasionally be looking for a calmer activity in the evening – so this time is when I’ll head to the shoreline in the hopes of seeing a very different light show.
One of nature’s most beguiling spectacles, bioluminescence is the ghostly glow of phytoplankton when disturbed by fish or waves along the shoreline, and it happens regularly off the shores of Holbox.
The best time to experience it is when the moon is in the dimmest phases of its cycle, particularly from June to August.
How much money do I need for Isla Holbox?
When budgeting, costs really depend on the time of year you plan to visit. In general, prices on Isla Holbox are lower than major resort cities such as Cancún and Tulum, but increasing popularity means bargain accommodation is getting harder to find.
After factoring in all costs, including transportation and one boat tour over a three-night stay, you can expect to budget anywhere from US$90–120 per person, per day during peak season.
Transportation: M$1800 (US$89) per person, including M$600 (US$30) for a bus ticket to Chiquilá, M$600 (US$30) for a round-trip ferry ticket and M$600 (US$30) for an onward bus ticket
Hotel double room: M$1000–3000 (US$49–147)
Dorm bed in a hostel: M$550 (US$27)
Boat tour to Punta Mosquito or similar: M$1050 (US$52)
A full-day tour to swim with whale sharks: M$3500 (US$180)
Coffee: M$70 (US$3.50)
Dinner for two: M$700 (US$35)
Beer/pint at a bar: M$60 (US$3)
Can I use US dollars in Isla Holbox?
Yes, US dollars are accepted almost everywhere. Yet it’s worth considering that when you pay using dollars, you’re unlikely to be getting a favorable exchange rate. Wherever possible, pay in cash, with Mexican pesos.
How safe is Isla Holbox?
Like the rest of the Yucatán Peninsula, Isla Holbox’ crime rate is significantly lower than the rest of Mexico. Since the community is primarily devoted to and dependent upon tourism, and given its calmer nightlife environment, crime rates are low. Nevertheless, you should apply the usual traveler's caution – especially when drinking alcohol.
What else should I consider when visiting Isla Holbox?
When traveling during hurricane season (June to November), keep a close eye on hurricane trackers ahead of and during your stay, to keep apprised of inclement weather systems. (The Zoom Earth website is particularly helpful and accurate.)
English is widely spoken on Isla Holbox, but learning and using a couple of friendly words of Spanish is a great way to show respect for local residents.
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