Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Don’t be fooled by the saloon-like doors, there’s a typical Portuguese tasca (tavern) inside: homey local cuisine, blue-and-white-tiled walls, chequered…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Don’t be fooled by the saloon-like doors, there’s a typical Portuguese tasca (tavern) inside: homey local cuisine, blue-and-white-tiled walls, chequered…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
'Aunt' Natércia and her downright delicious Portuguese home cooking is a tough ticket: there are a mere six tables and they fill up fast. She'll talk your…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This family-owned Mouraria tavern welcomes regulars and first-timers with the same undivided attention. Space is tight so sharing tables is the norm and…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This all-organic small-plates newcomer comes courtesy of Chef António Galapito, after his stint at Taberna do Mercado (Michelin-star chef Nuno Mendes'…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Mushroom fans unite! This Italian-owned, Italian-executed restaurant in the old Campo de Santa Clara market hall is simply magic. The menu devotes proper…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
French chef David Eyguesier honed his skills at Pois Café, then at his own underground restaurant at home before opening this sorely needed Alfama gem,…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
At this circus school's casual cafe, the decidedly creative menu of Chef Bertílio Gomes is served alongside views worth writing home about. His modern…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Hidden away in a narrow alleyway in the culturally diverse quarter of Mouraria, festive Cantinho do Aziz gets top marks for excellent Mozambican cuisine…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Expect a cosy and welcoming reception at this Portuguese-cuisine restaurant on the border between Baixa and the heart of Alfama. Its trademark dish is the…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Completely renovated and relaunched in 2018, this cute and quaint cafe deals in easygoing Portuguese mains and pancakes along with rare books – the walls…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Daring and polarising Boi Cavalo challenges diners with its weekly changing, seasonally inspired tasting menus (no à la carte) from its open kitchen,…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
While it's clear Portugal's top chef, José Avillez, is certainly not concerned about saturating the market, this stylish newcomer, the 14th in his Lisbon…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Nontouristy restaurants are hard to come by in Alfama, but this one, the more casual sister restaurant to high-end A Travessa, gets a nod for its sun…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Part-owned by actor John Malkovich, this uberhip dockside venue is all glass walls, artful lighting and airy river views. Upstairs, scenesters nibble on…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This chirpy, cash-only vegan cafe, run by a good-vibes Bangalorean, positively radiates good health with vegetarian, vegan, macrobiotic and sattvic dishes…
Confeitaria Rainha Dona Amélia
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This pastelaria's speciality is Queijadas Dona Amelia, small Azorean pastries, which originally date back to 1901, when they were served to Queen Dona…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Off the beaten path, this unassuming place draws a local crowd who come for beautifully prepared, good-value dishes. Join them in flavourful Alentejan…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This bistro wins the award for Lisbon’s loveliest summer courtyard: all vines, twittering budgerigars and fluttering laundry (though you'll struggle to…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
What this narrow cafe lacks in space it makes up for in atmosphere, with local artworks on the walls, occasional live music, traditional hats suspended…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Besides a bounty of wines, cheeses, olive oils and other gourmet goodies, this deli's wonderful waterfront patio has yet to be discovered by tourists …
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
If you just can't deal with any more bacalhau, the Gujarati owners at this classy curry house oversee some of Lisbon's best Indian cuisine and are…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Although its well-rounded menu sometimes misses, Maria Catita is a fun choice on Sunday evenings, when there's not much open. Appetisers such as the…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Boasting a laid-back vibe under dominant stone arches, atmospheric Pois Café has creative salads, sandwiches and fresh juices, plus a handful of heartier…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This friendly cafe has a handful of tables on one of Alfama's prettiest squares. It's a fine spot for a craft beer with grilled chorizo, tibornos …
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
In the shadow of the grand Sé de Lisboa, this youthful, jazz-loving cafe, whose name translates to 'Oh my God!' in English, has earned a local following…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Just steps from Castelo de São Jorge's entrance, this tiny restaurant enjoys a loyal following for its warm service and solid home cooking. Dishes such as…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Follow the scent of chargrilled fish to this local favourite tucked away on a small, festively decorated plaza in Alfama. Join buzzing crowds hunkered…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Friendly and usually full, this family affair is tucked down a slender backstreet near Martim Moniz. Reserve a table to munch on spicy Goan nosh such as…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
The food (tapas and light bites) is distinctly average, but a friendly owner and superb, extraordinarily moist orange cake (€4) make this a perfect pit…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This bright chequered-tablecloth-and-tile place overlooks a pretty square. Amid a tight, quaint interior, it rolls out charcoal-grilled dishes such as…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Signless Casanova seduces with wood-fired pizza that’s thin, crisp and authentically Italian. Bag a table on the riverside terrace (heated in winter).
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Palácio Belmonte's peaceful and beautifully located cafe, with old stone walls and an outdoor terrace, is just a few steps from Castelo de São Jorge.
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This quaint cafe is located in a small, friendly square in the heart of the Mouraria neighbourhood, offering affordable meals and exceptionally warm and…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Tourists flock to this cafe for its proximity to Sé de Lisboa, one of the city's busiest attractions, and the welcoming shade from the esplanade. It…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This place serves ice cream, waffles and sandwiches, but it's the convenience of having a freshly baked pastel de nata (custard tart) with an espresso on…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This cheerful, no-nonsense grill sits bang in the heart of Graça. At lunchtime the place bustles with hungry locals, who come for grilled seafood and…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
One of Lisbon's coolest cats, Gato Pardo is a wonderfully chilled cafe, with a mishmash of vintage furniture, splashes of art on the wall and good vibes…