Nontouristy restaurants are hard to come by in Alfama, but this one, the more casual sister restaurant to high-end A Travessa, gets a nod for its sun-drenched, flower-draped terrace – a nice spot for chasing classics such as stuffed squid or sea-bass rice with a refreshing vinho verde (young wine). There's also fado on Wednesday and Friday (at 8.30pm) on the 2nd floor.
It's just far enough from the cruise-ship terminal to not be quite as excruciatingly tourist-trappy.