Ti-Natércia

Top choice in Alfama, Castelo & Graça

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'Aunt' Natércia and her downright delicious Portuguese home cooking is a tough ticket: there are a mere six tables and they fill up fast. She'll talk your ear off (and doesn't mince words – some have been rubbed the wrong way, vegetarians in particular should avoid) while you devour her excellent take on the classics. Reservations are essential. Cash only.

If you do manage to get a seat, you're in for a treat, especially with the bacalhau com nata (shredded codfish with béchamel, served au gratin) or bacalhau à Brás (shredded codfish with eggs and potatoes) or, well, anything you else you might order. President Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa approved – his photo is on the wall.

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