Typical Portuguese food at the most popular tasca in Mouraria

©Sandra Henriques Gajjar/Lonely Planet

O Zé da Mouraria

Top choice in Alfama, Castelo & Graça


Don’t be fooled by the saloon-like doors, there’s a typical Portuguese tasca (tavern) inside: homey local cuisine, blue-and-white-tiled walls, chequered tablecloths – and it's one of Lisbon's best. The house-baked cod loaded with chickpeas, onions, garlic and olive oil is rightfully popular, and daily specials (duck rice on Wednesday!) make return trips tempting. Service is a lost cause, however.

Portions are huge – a half dose ('meia porção') is usually big enough for two. Walk-ins are welcome but booking ahead is recommended. Cash only.


Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Alfama, Castelo & Graça attractions

1. Tram 28E

0.08 MILES

Don't leave the city without riding popular tram 28E from Largo Martim Moniz. This rickety, screechy, gloriously old-fashioned ride from Praça Martim…

2. Castelo de São Jorge

0.16 MILES

Towering dramatically above Lisbon, these mid-11th-century hilltop fortifications sneak into almost every snapshot. Roam its snaking ramparts and pine…

3. Jardim da Cerca da Graça

0.18 MILES

Closed for centuries, this 1.7-hectare green space opened again in 2015 and is Lisbon's second-biggest park, offering a lush transition between the…

4. Carpintarias de São Lázaro

0.18 MILES

Currently in soft opening mode, this new cultural centre in the heart of Mouraria is housing temporary exhibitions in the afternoons, as construction…

5. Miradouro da Graça

0.19 MILES

A much-loved summertime hang-out of lisboêtas, this miradouro (lookout) sidles up to the baroque Igreja da Graça. It has an incredible view of the castle…

6. Igreja de São Domingos

0.21 MILES

It’s a miracle that this baroque church dating to 1241 still stands, having barely survived the 1755 earthquake, then fire in 1959. Its sea of tea lights…

7. Praça da Figueira

0.23 MILES

Praça da Figueira is framed by whizzing traffic, Pombaline town houses and alfresco cafes with stellar views of hilltop Castelo de São Jorge. At its…