Typical Portuguese food at the most popular tasca in Mouraria

©Sandra Henriques Gajjar/Lonely Planet

O Zé da Mouraria

Top choice in Alfama, Castelo & Graça


Don’t be fooled by the saloon-like doors, there’s a typical Portuguese tasca (tavern) inside: homey local cuisine, blue-and-white-tiled walls, chequered tablecloths – and it's one of Lisbon's best. The house-baked cod loaded with chickpeas, onions, garlic and olive oil is rightfully popular, and daily specials (duck rice on Wednesday!) make return trips tempting. Service is a lost cause, however.

Portions are huge – a half dose ('meia porção') is usually big enough for two. Walk-ins are welcome but booking ahead is recommended. Cash only.