Shrine of the Muses in Athens. Marco Argüello for Lonely Planet
Steeped in millennia-old history, gleaming and gritty, hectic and laid-back, cheerful and whining, just like its inhabitants, Athens is a diverse and eclectic modern capital offering its visitors countless possibilities for a perfect long weekend.
Being an Athenian since birth, I find it hard to introduce all my city's joys in a one-weekend itinerary. However, I have made an effort to combine some of the so-called "essential" Athens items for visitors, with things I love to do, see and experience in this charming and ever-changing metropolis that I call home.
First, the basics:
When to arrive: The city is a year-round destination. Summer is the high season, but the tourist crowds are dense, and the heat can be unbearable. Spring and early fall are ideal seasons to visit with cooler temperatures, whereas winters are mild and offer a much less touristy experience.
How to get from the airport: Metro, bus, taxi and car rentals are all available means to get from the Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport to the city center in 40–60 minutes, depending on traffic. A 72-hour tourist ticket, which includes all urban transportation plus two routes from and to the airport at €20 euros (about $23), is the best option for a weekend stay.
Getting around town: A modern metro system (3 lines) and an extensive bus network can take you virtually everywhere, and hop-on, hop-off double-decker buses with multiple routes and multilingual commentary will take you to the city's most notable sights. However, strolling around the city center is the best way to experience the everyday feeling of Athens and its people, and discover the capital's hidden treasures on your own.
What to pack: Casual and comfortable attire is all you need in Athens. Sandals and flip-flops are fine, but trainers are a better option for longer walks. The summer can get sizzling hot, so a hat and sunglasses should be on top of your list.
Where to stay: The city center is packed with hotels for every budget. Gatsby Athens, housed in a 1930s Art Deco structure, is a playful yet elegant choice. Not Hotel, a 200-year-old converted stone building, is a more pricey but exceptional option in the Gazi nightlife hub.
Friday
Morning
On your first day in this ancient city, get to know the lay of the land while walking around Thisio and Monastiraki market, the ideal place to browse trinkets and souvenirs. Follow it up with an energizing breakfast and a delicious smoothie at Happy Blender.
How to spend the day
After breakfast, continue to see the city's true colors by strolling around the charismatic neighborhood of Psirri and the historic center. Here, the commercial bustle around the small stores and workshops fuses with the relaxed lifestyle of countless cafés and intimate restaurants with streetside dining.
For lunch, grab a souvlaki, the quintessential Greek street food, at the famous Kostas or Prodorpio, two of the best in town. Vegan Beat is an excellent alternative for vegans.
Walk past Varvakeios, the city's frantic central food market, and Ermou Street, its commercial heart with an array of flagship stores of international and local brands. Wind down before dinner with a glass of fine Greek wine from Heteroklito's comprehensive list while watching the world go by.
Dinner
In the evening, stop by Manari, an edgy taverna serving elevated, traditional Greek fare, spearheaded by the famous chef, Aris Vezenes. Make sure to taste its highlight, the juicy lamb chops. Another quality option is ultra-hip Pharaoh, where diners can enjoy Greek dishes with a modern twist prepared exclusively on natural-fire stoves, in the youthful and alternative neighborhood of Exarhia. A reservation is necessary for both. For a more traditional option and one of my favorites, check out Kriti, a family-run restaurant serving scrumptious, authentic Cretan cuisine with fresh ingredients sourced daily from the island.
After dark
If you want a taste of Athens nightlife, The Clumsies is consistently included in various' world's best bars' lists for its delectable cocktails and relaxed atmosphere, which is ideal to start your evening. For a low-key experience with a sophisticated, old-school ambiance, pop into Galaxy Bar, one of the oldest spots in the city. Jazz in Jazz in upmarket Kolonaki also has a long heritage, and it feels more like a genre museum than a drinking joint. Finally, if you still feel energetic and fancy some late-night fun, Kukos mixes Greek and international mainstream beats into the early hours.
Saturday
Morning
No visit to Athens is complete without the uplifting experience of climbing the rock of the Acropolis, the city's eternal symbol and a landmark of Western civilization. It is strongly recommended that you start early to avoid the crowds and the extreme heat during the summer months.
How to spend the day
Spend a few hours delving into the majesty of the classical beauties of ancient Athens' golden century in the magnificent Acropolis Museum, one of the most important in the world. Continue with a languorous stroll around the picturesque alleys of Plaka, the old town. For an afternoon refreshment or a light snack, stop at Glykys' cool yard, just off the Plaka main square. For the rest of the afternoon, wander in trendy Koukaki, a neighborhood buzzing with cafés, restaurants, and small shops.
Dinner
The Acropolis Museum restaurant boasts one of the world's most majestic dining spectacles, facing directly the floodlit Parthenon. Its menu emphasizes fresh local ingredients, and live piano music rounds off an unforgettable evening in true Athenian style. Alternatively, head over to Ama Lachei, in Exarheia, where you'll be served delicious Greek cuisine in an old schoolyard, now a beautiful garden. Finally, if you opt to stay in Koukaki, Tuk Tuk is a tiny, authentic Thai restaurant that is hugely popular with Athenians, and rightly so. They take no reservations, so you may have to wait during peak hours.
After dark
Do not miss the opportunity to watch a performance in the Odeon of Herodes Atticus at the foothills of the Acropolis before it closes at the end of 2025 for extensive maintenance work - simply an unforgettable experience. Alternatively, watch a movie in an open-air cinema, a quintessential Athenian night out. Cine Thisio and Cine Paris offer direct views of the Parthenon to boot.
Sunday
Morning
Enjoy a slow morning before going to watch the ceremonial Grand Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier on Syntagma Square at 11am. Afterwards, explore the tranquil National Gardens, where you can enjoy a coffee or snack at the gardens' lovely café.
How to spend the day
Head to the trendy Pangrati neighborhood and visit the Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation, a museum with a splendid art collection by the likes of Cézanne, van Gogh, Gauguin, Monet, Degas and Picasso, to name but a few.
In the afternoon, take the funicular from Kolonaki to the top of Lykabettus Hill. On a clear day, the 360º views of the capital and the Saronic Gulf are breathtaking, and the sunset is arguably the best in the city.
Dinner
If you can't get enough of the city spectacle on Lykabettus, complement the glorious views with fine dining at Orizontes, the upmarket restaurant on top of the hill. For a more down-to-earth experience, descend the slope towards Kolonaki and enjoy a glass of ouzo with mezedes at Dexameni ouzeri, while pondering your experiences the last couple of days and making plans for your next visit.
Plan with a local
