9 of the best things to do in Lyon

France’s third-largest city has a tendency to pass under the radar. Yet once you’ve been to Lyon, it’s nearly impossible not to return.

This cosmopolitan place lies at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône Rivers, and has been a strategic hub since ancient Roman times. Famous for its gastronomy, contemporary Lyon is also simply lovely, thanks to a huge network of parks, miles of riverfront promenades and a dining scene that often takes place outdoors. What’s more, the compact city is easy to navigate on foot.

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From May until September, Lyon enjoys ample sunshine, its péniches (barge bars) spring to life and the riverbanks become giant picnic spots. In winter, the proximity to the Alps is tangible – skiers stomp through the metro in the early hours, and the snow-capped mountain peaks are visible from the city’s highest points.

If you’re planning to add Lyon to your next France itinerary, here are some of the best things to do in this wonderful city.

1. Climb the city’s hills

Lyon’s pair of hills are known as the working hill (Croix-Rousse) and the praying hill (Fourvière). The former was once the hub of the city’s famous silk weavers (hence the “working”), while the latter is crowned by the ornate Fourvière Basilica. The views from both are spectacular.

To reach Fourvière, either zigzag through the Jardin de la Rosaire from Vieux Lyon (the city’s most historic district) or take the funicular straight up. On a clear day, Mont Blanc is visible from the square next to the basilica. A metro line runs to Croix-Rousse – but if you tackle the ascent on foot, you’ll pass painted staircases, street art and plenty of boutiques, bars and restaurants to break the climb.

Local tip: At the top of Croix-Rousse, stop for a drink at Barabaar, where you can enjoy views of Rhône; the towers of business district Part Dieu; and, across the city, Fourvière.

2. Sample Lyon’s nouvelle cuisine

For ages, Lyon has evoked visions of bouchons (traditional bistros), where hearty quantities of offal and beef get piled high on tables covered with red-checked cloths. If andouillette and fried tripe set your heart (figuratively) racing, you’re in the right place – just avoid the tourist-trap bouchons of Vieux Lyon and instead book a table at Le Café du Peintre.

But Lyon’s food scene has evolved in new and exciting directions. In the 6e arrondissement, Franco-Lebanese fusion restaurant Ayla has been packed since it first opened in 2022. Franco-Italian boulangerie Frères Barioz also blends two storied culinary traditions – and it’s difficult to say whether the croissant or focaccia steals the show. Pioneering new chefs try out their ideas at buzzing food court La Commune – which means there’s always plenty of variety. While the quality and portion size can vary, you can always expect a lively vibe.

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3. Relax on the banks of the Rhône

One of the biggest joys of Lyon is the presence of its two rivers: here, you’re never far from the water. The quieter of the pair, the Saône is explorable by kayak or motorboat – even if one of its banks contains parking garages and other unpleasant traces of misguided redevelopment efforts.

The Rhône is the more lived-in of the two, with a bicycle route along its bank, and péniche (barge) bars that become packed the minute the sun comes out. In summer, grab a cheap bottle of wine to enjoy on one of the little beaches just opposite Av Maréchal Foch.

Local tip: Swimming is forbidden (and even if it weren’t, the water quality wouldn’t be templing). If you’re craving a dip, head to Centre nautique Tony Bertrand to swim in an open-air pool with views of the river and Fourvière.

4. Spot Lyon’s hidden mosaics and huge murals

We wouldn’t normally recommend looking down at your feet as you explore a new city. Except in Lyon, where an incognito street artist known as Ememem has filled in potholes with brilliant mosaics. While Ememem’s creations – known as “flacking” – are now all over Europe, they started here. The city is also known for its trompe l’oeil wall murals, enormous frescoes that bring to life the character of various parts of the city.

Local tip: The Fresque des Canuts (silk weavers’ fresco) in Croix-Rousse is one of the largest and most impressive in town.

5. Catch flickers of Lyon’s cinematic history

The former home of the Lumière brothers – who are widely credited as the inventors of cinema – the Institut Lumière has a fantastic museum tracing the history of cinema and the first films ever made. Naturally, it features a program of frequent film screenings as well. In Vieux Lyon, the Musée Cinéma et Miniature takes a more contemporary approach, displaying props and costumes from everything from Harry Potter to Star Wars.

Planning tip: Held at the Institut Lumière each October, the Festival Lumière welcomes some of the biggest names in cinema and hosts all-night movie marathons.

6. Take a Sunday market stroll

On Sundays, head to Marché alimentaire Saint Antoine/Céléstins, which attracts a pleasing mix of locals and tourists. In good weather, the riverbank is full of market-goers enjoying oysters and wine. Afterward, take a walk through Vieux Lyon to digest – you’re just across the river from Cathédrale St-Jean-Baptiste, which was constructed over 300 years between the 12th and 15th centuries.

Les Puces du Canal is the other big Sunday market. If you know your antiques, you can pick up some gems here; if not, it’s a great place to grab lunch and people watch at a typical guinguette (open-air cafe).

7. Learn something new at the city’s diverse galleries

Within Lyon’s city limits lie museums that allure and intrigue. From the outside, the Musée des Confluences looks like a futuristic, asymmetric igloo – but its permanent collection looks to the past, with thematic exhibits presenting natural history and the ancient world in fascinating ways. A contemporary art gallery on the fringes of the Parc de la Tête d’Or, MAC always has great temporary exhibitions. Yet the gallery that steals the show is La Demeure du Chaos. Open for private visits on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons (book ahead online), this collection of anarchistic art paints a bleak yet powerful story of the last few decades of world history. The grinning silver skull that leers over the walls offers a complete contrast to the red brick, blue-shuttered houses of one of Lyon’s wealthiest suburbs.

8. Tap into Lyon’s wine culture

With Beaujolais lying to the northeast, the Rhône Valley to the south, and Lyon’s own appellation Coteaux du Lyonnais served in most bars, wine flows in abundance here. You can blend your own special creation during an “assemblage” class at Chai Saint Olive, or get experimental over tapas at Les Assembleurs, where guests are invited to mix and match wines.

Local tip: If you’d like to raise a class with the locals, Canard de Rue in the 3e arrondissement always attracts a jovial crowd. Decor and food are both duck-heavy – and the reception couldn’t be warmer.

9. Savor the arts in former industrial spaces

In the 20th century, Lyon narrowly escaped becoming a city of large-scale industry, instead blossoming into a city of commerce and the arts. Today, plants that once belched pollution have been reclaimed and transformed. Former sugar factory Le Sucre presents rotating exhibitions and events; La Sucrière, its on-site club, has a fantastic rooftop and even late-night raves. At Halle Tony Garnier, a former abattoir has been transformed into an events space that hosts cinema concerts, live music and regular food and wine events. The former SNCF workshop in La Mulatière, Grandes Locos, now hosts Lyon’s largest festival, the 5-night electro extravaganza Nuits Sonores, in May.

Planning tip: The Independent Winemaker’s Showroom, held each October at Halle Tony Garnier, is particularly worthwhile.