9 of the best places to visit in France during fall and winter

France famously goes on vacation in the August heat – cue all those TikToks and memes about trying to get hold of someone in a French office between July and September – but in fall and winter this hugely popular country is still open for visitors, even more welcome now that the locals are back at work and school.

Autumn and winter are the perfect time to enjoy some of France’s heartiest cuisine that’s too heavy for summer: delicious stews, casseroles and soups, an almost unlimited number of melting cheesy dishes, warm vin chaud (mulled wine), and so much more. I’ve been lucky enough to live and work in this wonderful country for the last eight years, so let me share some of my favorite spots during fall and winter with you.

1. Strasbourg

Best for traditional Christmas markets in France

Alsace’s capital city, Strasbourg, is full of culture, crisscrossed by the canal network that links it into the Rhine River. Its stunning cathedral is a must-visit, and the rest of its Grande Île historic center is worth just wandering around and getting lost in. Hop in a small boat tour (book in advance) of the half-timbered houses and workshops of La Petite France neighborhood and soak up the sights.

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“Capital of Christmas” Strasbourg is famous for its Christmas markets. If you’re planning to visit one of these in France, this is the big one.

Planning tip: Strasbourg is just two hours to the east of Paris, on the high-speed TGV. You can even hop on a train direct from Charles de Gaulle Airport.

2. Small towns and villages in Alsace

Best for Alsace wine tours and fairy-tale villages

Alsace to the south of Strasbourg stretches along the Rhine, where a unique German-French fusion vibe extends from the architecture to the cuisine to the wines.

Bucolic towns and villages abound: Colmar, with its canals, timber-framed houses, and narrow streets, is stunning, but so are are smaller and quieter places like Eguisheim, Riquewihr and Ribeauville along the Alsace Wine Route.

Don’t miss the genuinely bonkers Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg on the mountains above Orschwiller, south of Sélestat: it’s of dubious historical veracity but the views and restored castle are nonetheless stunning.

Local tip: October brings the Vignobles en Scène food and wine weekend across Alsace, while November and December are the season for marchés de noël, when the region hosts some charming Christmas markets.

3. The Médoc

Best for Bordeaux wine estates and tastings

Bordeaux is bustling any time of year, so a more relaxed option is to base yourself out in the Médoc, the wine region that stretches along the south side of the Gironde river and its estuary.

Autumn and winter are the perfect time for the iconic reds that grow in this local terroir – wine buffs will know Pauillac, Margaux and Saint-Estèphe, but seek out some of the smaller names like Moulis-Médoc and Listrac-Médoc.

Pauillac is the largest town and helpfully on the Route des Châteaux wine road. Base yourself there for simplicity and dip into the city of Bordeaux by train, or strike out for a winery chambre d’hôte (B&B) in the heart of the vines for a taste of local life. 

Planning tip: In France you usually need to book a visit and tasting ahead rather than just dropping by the cellar door. 

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4. The Côte d’Argent

Best for cycling and seafood

France’s Atlantic coast west of Bordeaux, the Côte d’Argent (Silver Coast, named for the color of the sun on the sea) is home to some of its best beaches, packed with holidaymakers in the summertime but filled with relaxed charm once August is finished.

If you luck out with a warm autumn day – which can stretch surprisingly late in the season – head out to one of the très très French seaside towns like Soulac-sur-Mer. This relatively flat stretch of seaside is perfect for cycling, with truly excellent bike routes across the region, including along the ocean coast. 

Oysters from the Bay of Arcachon are some of France’s most famous, and for good reason. Specialist oyster bars and restaurants abound, and if you’re around in early December, check out the annual regional championships of France’s national oystershucking competition.

Local tip: Visit the local oyster farmer committee site for details and links to individual oyster farmers and which of their cabanes (beach huts/shacks) will be open when you visit.

5. Toulouse

Best French city destination in fall and winter

Known as La Ville Rose (the Pink City), thanks to the color of its local brickwork, Toulouse bakes in hot summers and stays warm well into the autumn, though winter can be cold but bright. It has a vibe unlike anywhere else in France: start in its stunning place du Capitole and extensively pedestrianized, walkable center, and then explore.

Lovers of architecture will adore the the UNESCO-listed Basilique St-Sernin and the many southern French Gothic churches and cathedrals, while the hôtels particuliers (private mansions) offer a tour through the centuries. Walking the banks under the enormous plane trees that shade the Canal du Midi, linking the Garonne river to the Mediterranean, is a real pleasure.

Local tip: Aerospace fans should book early for tours of the Airbus factory. The A350 tour is the most impressive, and don’t miss the Aeroscopia aviation museum nearby.

6. Carcassonne and Castelnaudary

Best for castles and hearty winter cuisine

Work up an appetite walking around the stunning historic hilltop fortified city of Carcassonne, which is rammed with people in the summer but empties out significantly from late September onwards. Explore Cité Médiévale, Carcassonne’s rampart-ringed fortress dates that back more than two millennia and has been fortified many times over the centuries by Gauls, Romans, Visigoths, Moors, Franks and Cathars, to name a few.

Then jump on the train to charming market town Castelnaudary, with its picturesque canal lagoon Le Grand Bassin, one of the official ends of the UNESCO-listed Canal du Midi since the 1600s. Cooler months are ideal for the quintessential cassoulet, a meat and bean stew with local sausages, pork, and duck (or goose) legs.

Local tip: A day trip taking in both cities is easy from Toulouse, and it’s less than an hour by train.

7. Thonon and Yvoire on the shores of Lake Geneva

Best villages in France for quiet getaways

Most of the southern half of picturesque Lac Léman – known as Lake Geneva in English – is in France and not part of French-speaking Switzerland. 

Ferries abound to explore the lake, with the widest choice from Thonon-les-Bains, but a quieter yet still well connected option is the charming medieval town of Yvoire. Cyclists will love the Tour du Léman, a 200km circular route around the whole lake. 

Don’t miss filets de perche du lac Léman, tiny fresh perch filet slices fished from the lake, usually served in a delicious beurre blanc (white sauce). Autumn and winter are when these fish are at their best.

Local tip: Make sure you keep an eye out for one small French word on the menu: du. You want perch fresh from this lake, usually listed as perche du lac Léman, not some random perch from elsewhere, which would be perche de lac or something similar.

8. The Alpine Riviera, Aix-les-Bains and Annecy

Best French Alps destinations

The French part of the former region of Savoy – generally the départements (departments) of Savoie and Haute-Savoie today – is a massive ski destination. But pop in before the season starts (usually in November to December, depending on snowfall) and you’ll enjoy a fabulous part of the country at a quieter time with some of the most beautiful villages, hiking trails and cycling routes.

This region of lakes and mountains is one of France’s most visually stunning, especially as you get closer to the Alps. Belle epoque period Aix-les-Bains on the Lac du Bourget is an old spa town that is now a bit of a suburb of larger Chambéry, while Annecy (on the lake of the same name) is quieter, with pastel buildings and a real gastronomic twist.

Planning tip: Annecy is quite the center for haute cuisine, so book early if you want the widest choice of destination restaurants.

9. Reims

Best day trip from Paris

Less than an hour east of Paris by TGV is historic, beautiful Reims, with its stunning cathedral where French monarchs were crowned, and which today is home to some of the most spectacular stained glass you’ll ever see, including modern works from artists like Marc Chagall and Imi Knoebel.

Reims is the largest of the Champagne-producing cities, but its lovely center is easy to navigate on foot or on the tram network – look out for the Champagne flute design on the front of the trams! 

Many of the larger Champagne houses offer tours of their incredible limestone caves where they mature their wines. Veuve Clicquot's is perhaps the most polished, while Pommery's has modern art displays underground, but if you’re keen on tasting a variety of Champagnes, head for Trésors de Champagne next to Boulingrin market, which is a cooperative of dozens of tiny independent Champagne growers, and does excellent tasting flights and masterclasses.

Planning tip: Skip the touristy restaurants in the pedestrianized place Drouet d’Erlon. Instead, head to one of the brasseries or bistrots in the streets north of the cathedral and place Royale.