How to hike the Fishermen’s Trail in Portugal

The historic Fishermen's Trail is a world-famous multiday hiking path, part of the walking and biking routes of the Rota Vicentina in southwest Portugal.

I began my journey at São Torpes Beach, in the Alentejo, next to the sign that marks the start of the Fishermen’s Trail. In the distance, the skyline was metallic gray: Sines, the nearest town, is one of Portugal’s main maritime ports and home to major oil companies. But this sign marks a 180-degree change in the landscape. Industry gives way to nature, and for 226km, the coastline of Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina revealed itself and challenged me with every step.

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The Fishermen's Trail at a glance

Start/end: The trail can be completed in either direction, with São Torpes in the Alentejo at one end and Lagos in the Algarve at the other
Distance: 226km
Number of stages: 13 stages, each intended to be completed in one day, with a maximum of 22.5km per day
Terrain: Mainly sandy trails along cliff tops with some steep paths
Level of difficulty: Moderate to challenging
Best time to hike: The trail is open between September and June. I went in spring, before the warmer weather made it uncomfortably hot for hiking

Why walk the Fisherman's Trail?

If, like me, you have always felt a strong connection to the maritime landscape, this trail will win you over. The route follows the coastline along old fishers' paths and through some of the most beautiful villages on the Portuguese coast.

It’s a challenge for sure. The Fishermen’s Trail consists primarily of sand paths with some steep inclines, making it physically demanding and entirely exposed to the heat, cold, rain and wind. And it’s done entirely on foot. This is a wild landscape and a fragile ecosystem, so don't stray from the paths, keep your distance from any nesting birds, take all trash with you, and leave no trace of your visit.

How long does it take to hike this coastal path?

Depending on your physical condition, you can complete the whole trail in 13 days, with the route divided into 13 stages. But I recommend spending some more time to fully appreciate the journey.

What's it like on the Fishermen's Trail?

The first stretch, between São Torpes and Porto Covo, is the easiest of the whole trail, which is just as well since I needed to keep my spirits up as I considered the challenge I’d set for myself.

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I walked in springtime – one of the best times to hike the Fishermen’s Trail. Wildflowers and aromatic bushes adorned the path. The sound of insects was interrupted only by the crashing waves or the occasional passing seagull. The tranquility began to sink in and it became a constant throughout this trip.When we are used to the city noise and a fast-paced speed of life, the mind takes some time to adjust to the silence and stillness.

This peaceful atmosphere was only disrupted as I approached the villages on the Fishermen’s Trail. Porto Covo is first on the list, marking the end of the first stage. With its whitewashed houses, walls trimmed in blue and the occasional pop of color from a pot of flowers or clothes laid out on the line, it’s an idyllic Portuguese village. Further along is picture-perfect Vila Nova de Milfontes, stretching along the Mira River, an ideal spot for a rest.

In Vila Nova de Milfontes, you can cheat a little on your adventure: crossing the river by boat to the next stage will save you some kilometers and travel time. The access to the harbor is near Forte de São Clemente, built in 1602 to defend the village from pirate attacks.

Other beautiful towns populate the trail to the south: Zambujeira do Mar, with its extensive beach; Odeceixe, which has one of the few windmills still in operation; and, over the border of the Algarve region, Aljezur, with the emblematic 10th-century castle on top of the hill overlooking the village. From here, the typically Algarvian chimneys appear in greater numbers on top of the white houses found in places like Arrifana or Carrapateira.

As I headed south, making my way down the map and crossing the different areas of the park, I noticed how the landscape of the Fishermen’s Trail starts to change, with low cliffs giving way to imposing scenery that hides stories from the past. The stretch between Aljezur and Arrifana, passing Monte Clérigo, follows increasingly high cliff tops and leads through the Ribat da Atalaia, ruins of an ancient Islamic fortress-convent occupied by 12th-century monks. As I looked back, I was amazed at the coast outline, the deserted beaches and the long way I'd already traveled.

The scenario repeats itself from Carrapateira to Vila do Bispo, and the medieval archaeological remains of the Islamic settlement of Ponta do Castelo, just before reaching Praia do Amado. Archaeologists claim that people once used it as an observatory for fishing. In this region along the rough Atlantic, fishing has always been – and will always be – a livelihood for the local people. Along the way, I also saw small fishing ports still in operation, such as the Lapa de Pombas near Almograve, or the Entrada da Barca by Zambujeira do Mar.

The Fishermen’s Trail includes two large capes: Cape Sardão on the way to Zambujeira, and Cape São Vicente, reaching Sagres. On both, imposing lighthouses warn boats that the land is closer than they might think. The atmosphere in these places is entirely different, however. Near the Cape Sardão lighthouse, the trail winds through aromatic bushes where white storks build their nests in the quiet of these cliffs. At Cape São Vicente’s lighthouse, quiet gives way again to the hustle and bustle of people, cars, tourist buses, hot dog trucks and souvenir stands. It’s a slap of reality brought about by one of Sagres’ main tourist attractions.

For many hikers (including me) Sagres marks the end of the adventure along the Fishermen’s Trail. Yet the path doesn’t stop there. To complete it, spend a few more days following the southern coast to Lagos, passing through Salema and Luz. Along the way, beaches like Barranco, Ingrina or Zavial will make this last great effort totally worthwhile.

How to hike the Fishermen’s Trail

When to go and where to start

It’s best to walk the Fishermen’s Trail between September and June, avoiding Portugal’s hottest months. You can start from north to south, at São Torpes beach in Sines; or from south to north, in Lagos, near the train station. Comprehensive signposts lie along the trail in both directions.

Where to sleep and eat

The villages along the trail offer local accommodations for overnight stays. Campsites are another option, and you can find them in São Luís, Vila Nova de Milfontes, Odeceixe, Sagres and Salema (wild camping is not permitted).

Villages have restaurants and stores for stocking up. Some of the delicacies to try along the way are the fish at Porto das Barcas (Vila Nova de Milfontes), any pizza at Piccolino (Zambujeira do Mar), breakfast at Ao Largo (Odeceixe) and the cakes at Pão do Rogil (Rogil).

What to bring with you

Depending on the time of year, bring layers to protect you from the heat or cold. Walking sticks are always a good help, as is sturdy footwear suitable for walking on sand. A raincoat can be helpful in the winter months, and a hat and sunscreen are essential. Keep backpacks under 20% of your body weight and bring plenty of water to stay hydrated.