At dusk, Pelican Bar can seem like a mirage jutting out of the sea. The thatched roofs and wooden stilts create a shadowy figure that one should be fleeing, not eagerly sailing towards in a motorized boat as the sun sets.
But that’s the allure of this place. The dream child of local fisherman Floyd Forbes has become one of Jamaica's most popular bars, attracting both local and international visitors. The wood paneling around the bar is adorned with flags, national scarves or hats, and automobile license plates.
Located about a mile off the coast of Treasure Beach on a sandbar, the only way to get to Pelican Bar is by boat. Hire a local fisherman (around US$50) to make the approximately 25-minute boat ride from Treasure Beach (travel times change based on starting locations) to the makeshift establishment.
This isn't a place for specialty cocktails or white-table service; heck, there isn't even a real bathroom. This is bare bones at its finest. Order a Red Stripe (cash only), some ultra-fresh seafood or fried chicken (made to order), play a game of dominoes or purchase a small souvenir from the local craftsman's stall.
One bit of modernity, however, is the solar-power panels affixed to the top of the roof – a gift from Red Stripe.
Originally built so Floyd’s fishermen friends could grab cold brews when out on the ocean, Pelican Bar now considers anyone who visits a friend. Sway to the reggae blasting through the sound speakers, find a comfy spot and just have a good time.
Despite the global attention Floyd's bar has received over the years, this remains a local watering hole. Jamaicans from as far away as Ocho Rios (over three hours away from Treasure Beach) have made the pilgrimage to this spot.
In 2004, Hurricane Ivan destroyed the structure, and the community donated materials and helped Floyd rebuild. You’ll likely bump into him relaxing at the bar of his dreams. His warm smile and white beard with chunky locs are hard to miss and he doesn’t mind sharing stories about the bar and his life.
If you're staying at a resort on the other side of the island, work with your hotel to plan a visit to the bar. You won't be the only one asking!
Eat
If you don't want to eat at Floyd's, Treasure Beach is filled with small shacks, restaurants and beachside bars that serve fresh seafood.
A few of the top places to go, courtesy of the Lonely Planet Jamaica guidebook, include Smurf’s Cafe for ackee and saltfish (the national dish); Kim’s Place for some jerk chicken and Mellow Yellow for a blend of Jamaican and Italian flavors.
Stay
Jake’s is a delightful hotel on Treasure Beach that offers basic rooms, oceanfront bungalows, cottages and villas. The vibe here is to disconnect from the outside world and reconnect with each other – there are no TVs in any rooms, but movie night is on Thursdays at the bar.
The mishmash of artistic decor and vibrant colors is an art teacher's dream, and it plays throughout every space on the property. There’s a saltwater pool next to a set of grand trees, a wooden platform with deck chairs over the open water, a yoga studio overlooking the ocean and a spa.
A full bar and kitchen (at Jack Sprat) have items like jerk fish tacos, pepper pot soup, cod fritters and grilled chicken on the menu.
Alicia Johnson traveled to Jamaica with the support of the Jamaican Tourism Board. Lonely Planet staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
