Paris’ 18th arrondissement: a Lonely Planet guide

From peasants tending village vineyards to starving artists and a thriving red-light district to gentrifiers with puppies: Montmartre and the rest of Paris’ 18th arrondissement have changed dramatically in the past 100+ years.

The Sacré-Coeur basilica and Amélie Poulain’s greengrocer shop are today the main tourist draws of the area – yet this northern quarter of Paris has much to offer beyond the crowds of the Place du Tertre.

Between the Place de Clichy and the Joules Joffrin metro station, you’ll find an array of bourgeois-bohème delights, with inviting independent boutiques, cafes, bars and bookshops peopled by stylish young Parisians sprinkled throughout the streets. In the summer, expect to see busy terrasses filled with tiny tables covered in wine glasses; come winter, you’ll catch glimpses of cozy tête-à-têtes through the windows of dimly lit restaurants.  

Once you reach the areas around the Château Rouge and Marcadet–Poissoiniers stations, you’re in an area called the Goutte-d’Or (Golden Drop) – also known by Parisians as Little Africa. In this part of the 18th, you’ll find an incredible collection of West African wax-cloth shops, tailors, grocers selling regional products and restaurants. You’ll also find a range of businesses hailing from the Maghreb, as the French call the Mediterranean region encompassing Algeria, Tunisia and Morocco.

In other words, a visit to the vibrant, diverse 18th will offer you a taste of true vie parisienne. 

Getting to and around the 18th arrondissement

From Charles de Gaulle airport, take the RER B to Gare du Nord and then walk north to the 18th. If you’re coming from Paris Orly, metro line 14 and connect to lines 4 or 12. 

Once you’ve arrived, walking is by far the best way to experience this neighborhood. As in almost all of Paris, the district is compact and easy to navigate.

Where to stay in the 18th arrondissement

The 18th has a familiar mix of upmarket and more-basic accommodation. Although many hotels will look similar online, it is worth being selective about the closest metro station, as some carry a higher risk of street harassment, particularly for women; pickpocketing; and encounters with drug users. We recommend picking a place away from the streets around Barbès–Rochechouart, Château Rouge, Marx Dormoy and Marcadet–Poissonniers stations. 

Save

Hostel/hotel Village Montmartre offers clean, bright rooms alongside a tiny terrasse and indoor social areas. But don’t expect much privacy in the dorms. 

Spend

Enjoy a comfortable, modern stay just over the hill in the small yet well-appointed rooms of Hotel Juliette, on quiet Rue Ramey.

Spend more

The Mom’Art Hotel is beautifully decorated, its interiors inspired by the 18th’s artistic legacy, and located within 400m (1312ft) of Sacré-Coeur. 

Where to get coffee in the 18th arrondissement 

Two gems are hidden in the streets behind Sacré-Coeur. Two Doors Coffeeshop draws a younger crowd who enjoy cigarettes with their paperback copies of Foucault, while Mignon café tends to welcome a stylish-mom set (come prepared to navigate strollers and children). If you’d like to venture farther from the tourist track, Ola’s Cafe is a colorful nook serving up delicious coffee and food (it gets crammed on weekends), while Lomi is an airy cafe-roastery. 

Where to eat in the 18th arrondissement

The 18th has a wide range of dining options, with a particularly good selection of French nouvelle cuisine and African restaurants. (Whatever you’re in the mood for, though, avoid sitting down at a tourist trap too close to Sacré-Coeur.) For breakfast, head to your corner boulangerie to grab something fresh; if you’re struggling to choose, Boulangerie du Square, Boulangerie Raphaëlle and Atelier P1 are all particularly good. For a decadent weekend brunch buffet, try B.O.U.L.U.M or La Bossue: the former sets out an upmarket spread that includes everything from oysters to freshly baked pastries, while the latter offers a buffet of wholesome sweet and savory dishes in a cozy cafe setting. 

During the week look out for the formule or menu déjeuner at lunchtime: these limited menus offer two or three dishes from a small list of options for a greatly reduced price, and are one of Paris’ great bargains. This is my favorite way to try out more expensive restaurants before choosing to splurge on a fuller meal.

For dinner, you'll find everything from fast-food falafel to neighborhood fine dining. HIRU proposes an intriguing Basque-Japanese menu, while La Traversée is a delicious example of nouvelle cuisine: small, seasonal dishes to be savored in a candlelit setting. La Fa Brick serves delicious Algerian food; don’t miss the eponymous brick: a parcel of phyllo pastry usually wrapped around a mix of egg and tuna with potatoes and capers. Meanwhile, GEMÜSE excels at substantial kebabs, with vegetarian and meat options. 

What to do in the 18th arrondissement

The best thing to do in the 18th? Simply walk, eat, stop for a drink…and soak up slices of Parisian life. If you want to accompany your apéro with a little activity, Les Mah-Boules is a buzzy bar where you can try indoor pétanque while you sip.

If you’re interested in creative urban transformation, La Recyclerie and Le Hasard Ludique are two former train stations turned into community hubs. A range of events, usually with a local focus, takes place at both spaces’ luminous bars and restaurants. 

If you want to expand your horizons, the Institut des Cultures d’Islam hosts a range of exhibitions and events dedicated to Islamic culture, and also has a top-notch tea room. From its arched entryway complete with red-carpet steps, to its courtyard bar, to its light fittings designed by Jean Cocteau in 1950 to look like party hats, Studio 28 is an immersive destination for art-house cinema. And don’t miss Galerie Echomusée, an art gallery and cultural space that resonates with music and the vibes of the local arts scene. Before your visit, check the locations’ websites to see what’ll be on.  

Where to shop in the 18th arrondissement

To feel like a local…

Leave the tourists behind and immerse yourself in a crowd of locals along Rue Poteau, a tiny street in whose independent shops you can stock up on everything from seasonal vegetables to books. On rainy days, browse the food stalls at Marché de la Chapelle, a wonderfully restored 19th-century market.

To feel fashionable…

For eclectic vintage finds at reasonable prices try Chinemachine. Iglaïne Vintage has a deluxe selection showcased in an old launderette. And if you enjoy digging for treasures, Marchand d’Habits has the cheapest and most expansive (read: least curated) selection around, filled with diamonds in the rough – if you don’t mind a little effort to find them.

Those in search of new clothing with a reduced price tag should head to A.P.C Surplus on Rue André del Satre, and Maje Stock on Rue des Martyrs. And Maison Château Rouge is the retail outpost of the iconic streetwear brand (and celebrity favorite) that draws inspiration from African style, especially the wax cloth found in ateliers all over the 18th.

To find gifts…

The atelier of Montmartre-based artist Victor Gouteyron, Sérigraphie Montmartre is where you’ll find bright, modern screen prints, many inspired by the streetscapes of the 18th. Librairie Le Pied à Terre stocks a wonderful selection of books, while you can put together your own box of sweet baked goods at Compagnie Générale de Biscuiterie. 

My favorite thing to do in the 18th arrondissement

For me, the 18th arrondissement is a district for living – for real life, rather than just pleasure. In the morning, before most folks are up, I like to walk to Boulangerie Alexine for a warm, buttery croissant. Covered in croissant flakes, I head next for coffee at Two Doors: the seats by the window are the best spot for people-watching. The rest of the day? A mix of vintage shops and a stop at Boulangerie du Square to pick up a seasonal pastry – and attempt to charm the ladies behind the counter, who rarely crack a smile. If they have a strawberry tart available, I always get one. 

If I have time, I’ll stop into the florist Muse to pick up an artfully selected bouquet of unusual blooms. I’ll grab a late bite of small plates at Lopin, followed by a long evening of talking and laughter with wine and a planche de fromage at Comestibles et Marchand de Vin. 

What to know about the 18th arrondissement

As in much of Paris (or anywhere), there is a risk of pickpockets in the 18th. Keep an eye on your belongings and never leave your bag hanging off the back of your chair, especially in the Goutte d’Or. Parisian restaurants have learned to accommodate dietary restrictions (vegan, vegetarian, celiac, etc) – check ahead or just ask your server about your options. 

When to visit the 18th arrondissement

If you want to enjoy a night of music and dancing, time your visit for Fête de la Musique, which happens on June 21 every year. During this sensational one-day festival, locations all over the city host musical programs and events that involve chamber orchestras, singers, DJs and every music maker in between.

If you’re keen to see the last remnants of Montmartre’s artist scene, come for the Portes Ouvertes event, during which creators open up their studios to visitors. For an altogether different cultural experience, the Festival of Ganesh features a whirlwind of color and dancing with a musical procession of believers starting from the deity’s temple on Rue Pajol.

Finally, the Fête des Vendanges has been running for 91 years at the foot of Sacré-Coeur, celebrating the grape harvest with a program of cultural events and a market filled with delicious treats. Each October, this is a fantastic opportunity to try regional food and wine hard to find in restaurants – look out in particular for stalls selling aligot and choucroute.

As everywhere in Paris, it’s best to visit the 18th after the rentée from the summer holidays, when tourist numbers decrease and Parisians return to their hometown.