Lonely Planet editor AnneMarie McCarthy recently returned from a jam-packed week in the Azores, exploring four different islands in 7 days.
As the lucky destination editor in charge of Lonely Planet’s Portugal coverage, I can tell you one thing with absolute certainty: you all love the Azores. Week after week, I see how readers like you are reading up on these green islands, which all your well-traveled friends are raving about.
When I got an invite from Visit Azores, I quickly packed up my rain jacket and sunscreen to check it out the archipelago for myself. Over the course of a week I visited the islands of São Miguel, Pico, Faial and Terceira, traveling between them mainly by plane but also by ferry.
What was the most touristy thing you did?
The most touristy activity I did was also my favorite: a dolphin- and whale-watching tour that set out from from Ponta Delgada on São Miguel. I’ve never had much luck with wildlife spotting, but since the Azores is one of the best places in the world for spotting cetaceans, I was optimistic. Between April and early July is an optimal time to set off, since the whales are on their annual migration and there are more species in the surrounding water. During nearly 3 hours at sea, we saw dolphins, orcas, sperm whales and pilot whales. All the whales kept their distance – but the dolphins got up close, chasing each other in front of the boat.
There are a limited number of companies in Azores with a license for this activity, and they all operate under strict “rules of engagement” – such as never approaching the animals from the front, and keeping a reasonable distance (the more vessels in the area, the further away they all have to be). None of this affects your chances of seeing them, however. I went with Futurismo, which offers two to three trips a day. The team is so confident you will have a successful sighting that if you happen to be unlucky, you can take a subsequent tour for free.
What was the handiest thing you packed?
My rain jacket. Although the sun did shine a lot, showers would blow through with little warning. The weather forecast on the islands is often not reliable – and when you’re spending so much time outside on hikes, you will want to be prepared for all eventualities. A lightweight, waterproof jacket will mean you can hike for hours without fear.
Yet no matter how well prepared you are, never hike off-trail, since you run the risk of damaging delicate endemic vegetation. What’s more, wild camping is not allowed anywhere on the islands. You’ll always be close to somewhere official to stay.
What’s your favorite photo from the trip and where was it taken?
This shot was taken at the bottom of a dormant volcano, Algar do Carvão. There are only three places in the world you can go inside one of these: Indonesia, Iceland and here, in the center of Terceira island. While you have to pass through a short tunnel to reach the interior, being inside doesn’t feel claustrophobic, as you can look up to the sky above.
You can also explore further into the caves to take in their cathedral-like spaces, all formed from volcanic stone. For something truly unique, occasional concerts take place here.
Best tip for someone who wants to plan the same trip?
Concentrate on fewer islands, or come for longer! Since the Azores lie in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, the temptation to island hop is strong, particularly in the summer, when travelers are less likely to be affected by poor weather and subsequent plane and ferry cancellations. I would recommend sticking with two islands that suit your travel style for each week you’re in the Azores. You could stretch this to three, depending on the size and proximity of the islands you fancy. (Pico is very small, for example, and is only an hour for Faial by ferry, making for a faster and more convenient trip than the plane.)
The Azores are all about the outdoors and good food – and every island has both in abundance. Almost everywhere you stay will be peaceful. Which is why you’ll get the most out of your visit here when you have time to relax and soak it all in.
Where did you stay? What was the vibe?
With a lot of island hopping came a lot of lovely hotels, all of which brought something different. In São Miguel, the nature-themed Senhora da Rosa was lovely, with an outdoor pool and rooms decor inspired by the local landscape. The on-site restaurant, Magma, provided a great last meal of my trip.
The rooms in Pico’s Aldeia da Fonte Hotel are in buildings made of volcanic rock – yet they somehow all reminded me of an American summer camp (at least, like I’ve seen on television). On the property is a sea walk, complete with a terrace to watch the waves and a ladder to get down into the cove to swim. It’s a great place to relax after a day of climbing Mt Pico.
Faial’s Hotel do Canal is right on the pier, making it perfect for exploring the bright, colorful murals left by sailors over the centuries. And it’s within view of the famous Peter Café Sport, where the lemon gin-and-tonic is never a bad idea.
Quinta da Nasce Água in Terceira is just a 10-minute walk from the historic center of Angra do Heroismo but feels like it’s in the countryside. The staff was incredibly welcoming here. (And, in fact, everywhere I stayed.)
Best thing you ate?
This one is too tough! I enjoyed incredible food all week, ranging from the very traditional to the inventive. This being Portugal, you can expect a meat-heavy menu – although I did have the best mushroom risotto of my life at Sensi Azores Hotel. It’s essential to try a cozido das Furnas, an array of meats arranged in a clay pot that gets buried, then cooked (and flavored) by the geothermal heat of volcanic activity. I watched the cozido pots getting collected from Furnas Lake – before tucking into mine at nearby institution Tony’s.
Other memorable meals were at Pico’s famous Cella Bar, where on a windy day I had wine, tapas and a view of Faial. Don’t leave Terceira without trying the island’s famous Dona Amélia, a sticky, spicy cake. (In fact, each island has its own signature pastry.) I’d also recommend Quinta do Martelo’s alcatra: a comfort stew cooked in a clay pot with wine, simmering long and slow until the meat practically melts.
Did I mention the food was good in the Azores?
AnneMarie McCarthy visited the Azores at the invitation of Visit Azores. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies for positive coverage.
