Lonely Planet Destination Editor for Central & Eastern Europe, Sandie Kestell, recently traveled to Andermatt, Switzerland. Here, she shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a similar trip.
I have a thing about the Alps. I spend most of the year dreaming about the ski season, but I know from experience that summer in the Alps is just as good as winter (maybe even better). I was picturing myself in Andermatt for weeks before my trip. It had been a long time since my last trip to Switzerland and I was more than ready for the mountain town charm, epic scenery and high-adrenaline adventures.
I landed in Zürich on a sunny Monday afternoon in early July. From here it was a 90-minute drive past Lake Lucerne and into the Alps to reach Andermatt in the Canton of Uri. Here’s what I got up to.
Where did you stay? What was the vibe?
I stayed at the four-star Radisson Blu Hotel Reussen in Andermatt Reuss, Andermatt’s new town just a short stroll through the modern train station from the historic old town. The hotel opened in 2018 and, alongside the five-star Chedi Andermatt, was part of the large-scale development of Andermatt as a tourist destination. It is designed in an alpine chic style – the lobby has a bar and seating around an open fireplace and has a cozy feel despite its large size (and it is large). The hotel, with around 240 rooms and suites, has a spa and wellness center with a gym, sauna, steam room, and pool – exactly what you need after a day of mountain activities.
Favorite activity from the trip?
Hands down, completing the Diavolo Via Ferrata was the highlight of my visit. This K2-3 climb requires no previous climbing experience, just a good level of fitness, an adventurous spirit and a head for heights.
I met mountain guide Markus Wey from the Mammut Mountain School at the Imholz Sport shop on Piazza Gotardo just outside the hotel to get kitted out with all the gear I would need for the climb: a helmet, harness with carabiner clips, and gloves. After a safety briefing, we set off on the short walk out of town to the course starting point, just past the famous Teufelsbrücke (Devil’s Bridge) and next to the Suworow Monument.
I clipped onto the thick steel cable and set off, reaching tentatively for the first rungs anchored into the rock face. Once I got the hang of it, I was giddy with the thrill of adventure, stealing glances at the dreamy alpine landscape. You can hear the water rushing through the Schöllenen Gorge below for almost the entire 450m (1476ft) vertical climb. We took a break about two-thirds of the way up where the path opens slightly to fit a wooden bench. This was a chance to catch our breath, take in the view, and refuel before the final section to the top. All in all, it took just over two hours to climb the via ferrata. The views from the top are stunning and you’ll get a big-time dose of that "I did it!" feeling.
What was the most scenic experience of the trip?
Everything is scenic in Andermatt! One particularly memorable experience of its beautiful views was taking an e-bike ride from Andermatt through the Unteralptal valley to the Vermigelhütte mountain hut and back, a round trip of around 25km (16 miles). My guide, Sales Danioth, and I opted for e-bikes to take the sting out of the steeper sections (though none are that steep) and guarantee a relaxed ride. We rode through the unspoiled landscape on a gravel path alongside the Unteralpreuss River. The scenery is stunning: high pastures, wildflowers and alpine roses, and tall peaks in the distance. At one point we started to hear the tinkle of giant cowbells and came upon a group of cows grazing by the trail, so, of course, we stopped to meet the friendly ones.
We reached the Vermigelhütte mountain hut in about an hour and took a break there. This remote hut is an overnight stop for hikers going hut-to-hut on the 81km (50 mile) Vier-Quellen-Weg (Four Springs Trail) that leads to the sources of the Rhine, Reuss, Ticino and Rhone rivers. We returned along the same track. Once we had made it back to town, we took the elevated route that runs alongside Andermatt Golf Course (named Switzerland’s Best Golf Course in 2023). Here we got a lovely view of the course and back towards Andermatt.
What was the most touristy thing you did?
Switzerland’s mountain passes are legendary for their stunning scenery, wild switchbacks, and history as trade routes. They draw drivers, motorcyclists and cyclists from all over the world. I couldn’t miss out on the action. So, I took a mountain drive zigzagging along the spectacular Furka, Nufenen and Gotthard passes. My guide and driver was car enthusiast Armin Duddek, and we hit the road in style in his Ferrari Portofino M Cabrio. No matter the angle, the scenery was simply epic, with icy mountain peaks, alpine lakes, gorgeous glaciers and lonely valleys.
We headed out along the Furka Pass from Andermatt, snaking up the same hairpin bends that James Bond did in the 1964 film Goldfinger. There’s even a road sign marked James Bond Strasse at one of the lookout points on the pass. We made a stop at the famous Hotel Belvédère (now closed) where we got our first glimpse of the retreating Rhône Glacier before descending to the village of Gletsch and onwards to the Nufenen Pass. More glorious bends took us to the high point at 2478m (8130ft), where the summer warmth hadn’t melted all the snow yet and we stopped to get a look at a large group of ibex grazing close to the road on the lingering patches of snow.
Continuing on the Nufenen Pass towards Italian-speaking Ticino and the town of Airolo, we joined the Gotthard Pass. Our final stop was at Lago della Piazza and the Sasso San Gottardo fortress-turned-museum that tunnels into the heart of the mountain. We drank in the wild beauty and started the winding journey back to Andermatt.
What was the best thing you ate?
It's tough to choose between the best dishes, so let's call it a tie. The freshly made spaghetti with Périgord truffles served at Gütsch by Markus Neff was delicious. This is the finest restaurant on Andermatt’s culinary scene and, thanks it its location at the top of the Gütsch-Express gondola, dining here is an experience in itself.
Restaurant Sonne in the old town is a great place to try traditional Swiss fare – I recommend the cheesy Älpler Magronen macaroni with potatoes and applesauce. While you're there, don't miss a taste of the Swiss Möhl Saft cider, which was simply perfect.
Did you bring home a souvenir?
I brought home the best edible souvenir: Swiss cheese. About a 20-minute drive along the Furka Pass from Andermatt is the family-run Alp Galenstock cheese dairy. Visit here for an insight into how the Meyer family make alpine cheese, from the heating process to gathering and pressing the curds right through to soaking the pressed cheese in a brine solution and maturing the cheese in cold storage. I also got to taste some fresh samples of the mild and tasty Mutschli cheese. What a treat!
I couldn’t leave without a wheel. I bought mine inside the dairy, but anyone passing by can stop across the road at the Alp Shop, where the family sells cheese, yogurts, and a small range of other homemade delicacies. The shop isn’t staffed and runs on an honesty system, so be sure to bring plenty of cash.
Sandie visited Andermatt as a guest of Andermatt Swiss Alps. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
