Feb 10, 2020 • 5 min read
Get to know Bangkok one neighborhood at a time © Alexander Spatari / Getty Images
To put it bluntly, Bangkok is a behemoth.
There are 50 districts and more than 2000 communities within the Thai capital. Factor in the round-the-clock energy and red-hot dining and nightlife scenes, and it can be hard to know where to focus your time and attention. While cheap taxis can tempt you to cross the city on a whim, persistent gridlock can sink itineraries. Bangkok is easier to love when you focus on just one or two neighborhoods at a time. It also rewards visitors who escape Ratanakosin’s temple touts and Khao San Road’s backpacker bar life.
Whether you want to party with the upper crust in Thonglor or go on a laid-back photo walk in Talat Noi, here are five neighborhoods you can’t miss in Bangkok.
1. Thonglor and Ekkamai
Best for bougie nightlife
Few districts embody Bangkok’s rapid development better than Thonglor and neighboring Ekkamai. In the early 2000s, the city’s young money convened at its indie bars and clubs. Condos, office towers and upscale restaurants have polished out the rough – and most interesting – edges, but the neighborhoods remain among the best places to see and be seen in Bangkok (and get a good drink).
Start at the Commons, a four-storey community mall boasting more than a dozen restaurants and bars. Grab an IPA at the Beer Cap or a negroni at Sugarray Apartment, then pick your poison from the many other bars within stumbling distance.
Go for the music at vinyl-haven Bar Marco. Try one of 26 signature drinks at Rabbit Hole or a “super classic” (a fusion of two classic cocktails) at Dry Wave. Plug into the city’s underground at vintage shops-slash-dive bars Tuba and Shades of Retro. Pick from 30 taps of beer at Mikkeller. After midnight, let loose at 12 x 12 – the place to go for alternative electronic music – or high-energy MU:IN, a Korean club brand and favorite among young Thai party people.
Afterward, fill up on Thai-Chinese food at late-night spot Sangchai Pochana, before crashing at Hotel Nikko or an Airbnb – there are many affordable options in the nearby condos.
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2. Talat Noi
Best neighborhood for creatives and photographers
One of Bangkok’s oldest communities, Talat Noi was once the city’s hub for spare auto parts. Today, this district wedged between Chinatown and the Chao Phraya River is known for the photogenic cafes that have cropped up between shrines and shophouses spilling over with second-hand engines.
Follow camera-toting cafe-hoppers to Mother Roaster, a drip coffee specialist set above a room full of auto parts. Then dodge the sputtering Vespas rumbling down the narrow alleyways to Timo and Tintin for iced lattes and designer keepsakes. For single-origin coffee, don’t miss Danish import La Cabra.
Bangkok’s creative community flexes its muscles in Talat Noi. Visit Citizen Tea Canteen for its cha yen (Thai iced tea) and cheeky decor, riverside hang out Baan Rim Naam for alfresco sundowners, the Warehouse for pop-up markets and EDM parties, and neon-drenched Charmgang for elevated Thai curries.
Unlike neighboring Chinatown, Talat Noi mostly empties out at night, to the benefit of anyone seeking relative peace and quiet. For a hotel with heaps of character, book one of the seven riverside rooms at Loy La Long, or try family-run Tiny TaladNoi hostel, which gets rave reviews for its friendly service.
3. Chinatown
Best for old-school food and new-gen bars
Despite the creeping threat of gentrification, Bangkok’s Chinatown has retained a large degree of authenticity – a big reason tourists of Chinese descent gravitate here.
Its neon-lit heart needs no introduction: Yaowarat Rd is a must if you love to eat. Street vendors like Guay Jab Ouan Pochana – famed for its rolled noodles in peppery broth – and fishball specialist Lim Lao Ngow are institutions that can draw hours-long queues.
These days, you’ll also find buzzing restaurant projects beside them. Ex-Nahm chef David Thompson’s Chop Chop Cook Shop pays tribute to Chinese diaspora cooking, while Potong and Opium have transformed a family pharmacy into five floors of Thai-Chinese fine dining and cocktails.
It’s impossible to overstate the impact Chinatown has had on Bangkok’s bar scene. You don’t go just for food anymore. Thanks to the bars linking the alley of Soi Nana, now you go for G&Ts at Teens of Thailand, cocktails made with lesser-known Thai ingredients at Asia Today, jazz at Brown Sugar and yadong (Thai herbal liqueur) at Tep Bar.
If you like design-forward hotels, Chinatown is a winner. Book a room at Hong Kong-inspired Ba Hao, Thai-Chinese shophouse 103 Bed and Brews or Mustang Blu, a brilliantly renovated former brothel.
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4. Ratchaprasong and Siam
Best for shopping and mall-hopping
Downtown Bangkok can feel like one interlinked shopping mall. In Ratchaprasong and Siam – roughly between BTS sky train stations National Stadium and Chit Lom – you’ll find no fewer than 10 of them.
While it may seem absurd for so many shopping centers to share a postal code, each offers a different edge. There’s MBK, a labyrinth of souvenirs; CentralWorld, the world’s ninth-biggest mall, which brims with dining and entertainment options; Bangkok’s preferred luxury shopping destination, Siam Paragon; high-end indie fashion hub Siam Center; and Siam Discovery, which offers retail space for local artisans.
Look past the commercial giants, and you’ll discover an independent streak. Siam Square has become Bangkok’s answer to Seoul’s Myeongdong – a pedestrian-friendly avenue where uni students perform dance-offs and celebrities host meet-and-greets. Nearby, you can score vintage Thai movie posters inside Lido Connect or shop for indie fashion at Frank Garcon.
If you love art, visit the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) for nine floors of exhibition space, venture to the Jim Thompson Art Center for contemporary pieces or shop for framed prints from local designers at Saratta Space.
This is also a great place to stay, with everything from international brands like the Siam Kempinski to the boutique Hua Chang Heritage and brutalist Reno Hotel.
5. Silom
Best for green space and diversity
Silom might be Bangkok’s business district, but diverse communities thrive under the shadows of its office towers. Start at Soi Prachum Market, a thrumming mix of produce stalls that reflects the district’s Muslim, Hindu and Chinese influences. Go early to see it at its busiest.
Get pandan cream buns at long-standing DK Bakery or eggs Benedict at Luka cafe, then visit the Sri Mariamman Hindu temple and Mirasuddeen Mosque.
As the district swells during work hours, retreat to Lumphini Park, the city’s first and most popular public park. Stick around until 6pm to witness a small army of office workers descend upon the running track, or follow the elevated walkway – the Green Mile – to the city’s newest park, Benjakitti Forest Park.
You can eat your way around the world in Silom. Join Japanese expats at smoky izakaya Daimasu or ramen specialist Ramentei. Grab a plastic stool and tuck into fiery papaya salad at Larb Ped Yasothon. Saravana Bhavan serves excellent vegetarian thalis, Indigo offers French comfort food, Khao So-I reimagines northern Thai cuisine, Kai specializes in fish and chips – the options are endless.
Silom is also the beating heart of Bangkok’s LGBTIQ+ community. After dinner, strap in for a raucous drag show at the Stranger Bar, then unwind with a martini at Vesper.
Whether you want a five-star hotel like SO Bangkok or a hostel like Cloud On, you’ll find dozens of great accommodation options in Silom.
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