To discover what Ko Chang was like before tourists came, visit Ban Salak Phet, in the far southeastern corner. This sleepy community is full of stilt houses, fishing boats and yawning dogs who stretch out on the roadside; it also provides access to some good treks.
Just before the fishing village is Wat Salek Phet, a small but elaborate temple complex. Most visitors continue on for the seafood restaurants or to cruise the lonely byways for a secluded beach. Beyond the commercial heart of the village is Ao Salak Phet, a beautiful blue bay serenely guarded by humpbacked islands.