The Scottish author's former residence is an enchanting estate, with a centrepiece lawn and perfectly manicured gardens. Stevenson's mansion, substantially destroyed in the cyclones in the early 1990s, was lovingly rebuilt and opened as a museum in 1994 on the centenary of Stevenson’s death. Access is by a half-hour tour that leads through rooms filled with antiques and sepia family photographs.
Stevenson is buried in the adjacent Mt Vaea National Reserve. Follow the signs for the path – known as the 'Road of Loving Hearts' – to the tomb. At the first unmarked fork, turn left. The path soon forks again: the right-hand trail (30 minutes) is steeper but shorter; the left-hand trail (50 minutes) is gentler but still involves a final slippery section. At the top you’ll be greeted by wonderful views of Apia, Stevenson's stately Victorian tomb, and clouds of vicious mosquitoes. Cool off after after your hike with a dip in the natural swimming hole that was once the author's pool; it's right near the museum carpark.
A taxi from Apia to the museum costs ST10 one way, or take the Vaoala bus (ST2) from Maketi Fou.