Once a run-down area between the Mercado dos Lavradores and the Fortaleza de Santiago, in recent years the 'Old Zone' of merchant's houses and 19th-century fishermen's cottages has been transformed into Funchal's hottest nightlife and restaurant area. Most of the action takes place on Rua de Santa Maria that runs the length of the Zona Velha, packed at night with milling visitors and almost blocked with restaurant tables. It's also here you'll find most of the artworks belonging to the Open Doors Arts Project.
At its eastern end, Rua de Santa Maria widens out into pretty Largo do Corpo Santo where you'll find the Capela do Corpo Santo, the old fishermen's chapel. On the seafront the Jardim do Almirante Reis was once a football pitch (hence the footballer statue). From here the cable car leaves for Monte.