If you only visit one of Pemba's bairros (townships), make sure it's Paquitequete, located beside the bay downhill from the centre. Dominated by its waterside fish market and distinctive green and white mosque, it's like a fishing village wrapped inside a larger city. You can wander in the daytime around its unkempt but lively unpaved streets, but the best time to visit is at sunset, when boisterous football games kick off in the large open space in front of the mosque.