Of three early-20th-century ‘exile houses’ in Banda, Mohammed Hatta’s house is the most appealing. It’s partly furnished and photos of the dissident, his typewriter, distinctive spectacles and neatly folded suit are all on display. In the courtyard, where there are vintage clay cisterns and an old brick well sprouting with bromeliads, you'll also find a schoolhouse that Hatta founded during his exile. Ask at your guesthouse to find the key-holder.