All along the Hooghly riverbanks, strung along leafy cobbled promenades, lie a number of ghats or piers, which make for an excellent outing in the early mornings or late evenings. While most of them serve as operational jetties for ferries, many double as places of intense human ritual, from bathing, praying and physical training to playing cards, socialising and even cremating the deceased. Photography isn't prohibited but is a sensitive issue, so ask before you get clicking.