Dramatic if largely unadorned, this brick palace is the last major remnant of the Ahom kingdom’s pre-Sivasagar capital at Garhgaon. You can climb to the top of the unique four-storey structure, which rises like a stepped pyramid above an attractive trees-and-paddy setting. Sivasagar seems to have already replaced Garhgaon as the capital before the Kareng Ghar was built in 1752. It’s about 15km along the Sivasagar–Sonari highway and down a village road: turn left just before Garhgaon itself.