A road leads from the capital to the village of El Progreso, about 6km to the east and at the base of the 896m-high Cerro San Joaquín, the highest point on San Cristóbal. It’s a sleepy, ramshackle village with nothing much to see. Buses go here several times a day from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno or you can hop in a taxi for around $3.50.
Near the town entrance, the Casa del Ceibo scores high on novelty. Halfway up an enormous ceiba tree (reached by narrow swinging bridge) is a tiny shed where you can bunk for the night. You can also climb up the outside or simply enjoy a cool drink in the snack bar below.