What you need to know before your trip to Oaxaca City, Mexico

Punching well above its weight for its size, Oaxaca combines cultural treasures with big-city grit – making for one of the most intriguing, rewarding and just sheer fun destinations in all of Mexico.

Historic churches rise from cobblestone plazas. At bars and tasting room on side streets, you can learn the intricacies of mezcal, a regional speciality made from the bounty of nearby agave fields. And just about every week, a different festival brings oaxaqueños into the streets for parades, dancing and all-around merriment. (The Día de Muertos festivities here might be the best in the whole country.)

Excited yet? Here are 11 things you should know as you plan your trip to Oaxaca City.

Planning for your trip to Oaxaca City

1. Book ahead for Día de Muertos and Guelaguetza

If you plan on visiting in November for Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) or in July for the Guelaguetza Festival (a renowned event showcasing folkloric dance and music), you should book your accommodations many, many months in advance. For these two festivals are true highlights of Oaxaca City’s – and all of Mexico’s – cultural calendar.

Sure, you should count on pricier room rates during such events. Yet the city’s impressive array of lodging options caters to all budgets, from affordable hostels and guesthouses in spacious old homes to charming B&Bs and non-franchise boutique hotels in the heart of the historic center.

2. Cards are fine – but carry cash, too

Credit cards are widely accepted throughout Mexico, including in Oaxaca City – though you should count on carrying cash as some small businesses don’t take plastic. ATMs dispense Mexican pesos and there’s usually a 3% international transaction fee tacked on.

You can exchange foreign currency at Oaxaca’s international airport or at money-exchange offices clustered around the Zócalo, the main square.

3. Pack casual, comfortable clothes

Even though you’ll see fewer people wearing shorts and tank tops than in Oaxaca State’s dreamy beach towns, casual dress is the norm in the state capital. Don’t forget to pack a long-sleeve shirt and long pants for protection against mosquitoes and the sun.

A light jacket is always useful for cool evenings and air-conditioned buses. If you’re heading on to Oaxaca’s tropical coast, also take a swimsuit, flip-flops, loose-fitting clothes and insect repellent. For ecotourism outings in the nearby Sierra Norte mountains, bring a heavy jacket.

4. Count on taking day trips to explore beyond Oaxaca City

With its extraordinary cultural offerings – museums, art galleries, uniquely savory cuisine and intoxicating nightlife – you may never want to leave the city limits. But making time for a day trip or two will only deepen your appreciation of all Oaxaca has to offer.

On a plateau a short distance from the city center are the magnificent ruins of Monte Albán, a center of Zapotec culture many centuries ago. Or head south to visit artisan workshops for an up-close look at master craftspeople making such treasures as alebrijes (surreal wood sculptures based on mythological animals).

Etiquette in Oaxaca City

1. Slow down and do the right thing

Oaxacans typically are not sticklers about etiquette – though you should be aware of a few tendencies when interacting with locals. First, remember that life moves at a leisurely pace in this corner of Mexico: try not to get upset if someone shows up late or if service is slow in a restaurant.

When shopping in Oaxaca, prices are fixed in most stores. It’s OK to do some friendly haggling with market vendors, though do keep a sense of perspective about the amounts you’re bargaining over, as most folks are just trying to make a living.

2. Remember to tip

Whenever possible, tip generously in restaurants and hotels as gratuities are crucial to the livelihood of workers in Oaxaca, one of the Mexico’s poorest states. Tip 10–15% in restaurants, 5–10% of room costs in a hotel and 5 pesos to M$10 for parking lot and gas station attendants. Taxi drivers usually don’t expect tips, but always welcome them.

3. Listen for – and respect – the variety of languages spoken here

Oaxaca is home to one of Mexico’s largest populations of Indigenous-language speakers, with about a third of its inhabitants speaking one of 16 regional tongues. As you roam around the marketplaces and public squares, you’ll hear locals chatting in Zapotec or Mixtec, the region’s two most widely spoken Indigenous languages.

4. Embrace Oaxaca’s love of mezcal

When bellying up to a mezcal bar, keep in mind that the distilled agave drink packs quite a punch (usually 45–50% alcohol content). Also – and crucially – the spirit caters to refined palates, and is best sipped slowly to fully appreciate its distinctive aromatic taste. Duck into a classic mezcalería such as In Situ to savor the flavor of artisanal mezcals.

For day trips out to mezcal country in nearby Santiago Matatlán, consider booking a tour with the experts at Experience Agave. Alternatively, if you want to sample more than just a few sips, you can always leave the driving to a taxi for about M$500 each way.

5. Don’t drive in the historic center

Driving in Oaxaca City requires patience, particularly in the hectic historic center, where traffic snarls and a lack of street parking can make life miserable. You’ll be much better off on foot when exploring the centro’s noteworthy sights, such as the world-class Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca.

While many downtown streets do not have stop signs or traffic lights, most drivers abide by uno por uno etiquette, meaning the first vehicle to arrive at an intersection has the right of way. Beyond city limits, traffic is usually light – but you should expect a fair share of poorly maintained roads with a slew of potholes and unmarked speed bumps. Also, be aware that protesters regularly stage blockades in Oaxaca. If you come across a roadblock, seek an alternative route or you may find yourself stuck for hours.

When renting a vehicle, always take out liability insurance, known in Spanish as daños a terceros. Walk-in car rentals in Oaxaca start at about M$800 per day with liability coverage included; you can often find better deals online. Most major credit cards provide free collision coverage for auto rentals.

Safety in Oaxaca City

1. Don’t drink the water...but do eat the street food

Do not drink water from the tap. Instead, purchase bottled water in supermarkets or convenience stores. Most restaurants and hotels serve purified water.

When it comes to street food, it would be a missed opportunity not to take a few risks in a culinary hot spot like Oaxaca. Look no further than the delectable mole tamales at Tamales de San Agustín Yatareni, or the tender pork tacos at the wildly popular Lechoncito de Oro.

You can lessen the chances of getting sick by carrying hand sanitizer and choosing a place to eat that appears to have good hygiene practices. If you do get a stomach bug, Hospital Reforma is a decent option with 24-hour medical attention. Call 911 for emergencies.

2. Stay calm during earthquakes

Oaxaca is located in one of Mexico’s most seismically active regions and is prone to frequent (and occasionally strong) earthquakes. Rest assured that most come and go doing little harm.

If you hear the seismic-alert-system sound, remain calm and move to an open space away from buildings and power lines. Should a quake hit while you’re on the coast, head inland to reach higher ground.