A first-time guide to Santa Fe, New Mexico

Santa Fe could be one of the US’s best-kept secrets. Unlike anywhere you’ll visit in the rest of the country, New Mexico’s state capital is the oldest state capital in the nation, founded more than 400 years ago in 1607. Signs of its former (and current) residents lie all around in distinctive Southwest style – adobe architecture and low-slung red-hued desert dwellings, plus grand ornate churches brought by the Spanish. 

Aside from its awesomely unique architecture and rich history, Santa Fe is geographically different. Sitting at an altitude of 7000ft, it also takes the gong for being the highest state capital in the US. The striking Sangre de Cristo Mountains (part of the Rocky Mountains) can be seen in the distance, and outdoor fans are never far away from an opportunity to hike or ski in the stunning nearby surroundings.

Santa Fe has a relatively small population for a state capital – only 90,000 residents – but its DNA is diverse, with large Hispanic and Indigenous communities, making for an exciting culinary and art scene. The best way to fuel sightseeing, boutique shopping and outdoor pursuits is with the local green chile, homegrown wine and spicy margaritas.

When should I go to Santa Fe?

Summer is peak season and offers lots of events and festivals (including July’s Santa Fe Art Week, the International Folk Art Market and the Santa Fe Indian Market), but rates are high, streets can be crowded, and temperatures can be warm – ranging from 80–90°F (26–32°C). Spring is cooler and a fun time to visit for wildflowers on the nearby slopes and lingering snow-tipped peaks. Fall is the most pleasant season, when Santa Fe continues to host some festivals (including the popular Fiesta de Santa Fe, where they set fire to a 50ft-tall marionette called Zozobra and all activities (bar skiing) are open. Winter is the quietest time of year, but it is beautiful if you wrap up warm (lows of 20°F/-6ºC). This is when the landscape is covered in a blanket of snow, and winter sports enthusiasts flock to the area.

How much time should I spend in Santa Fe?

A long weekend is the perfect amount of time to spend in Santa Fe to soak up the relaxing, creative and cultural setting. The ideal three days in New Mexico's capital include wandering the city's distinctive adobe architecture, plus popping into its churches (don't miss the grand staircase at the Loretto Chapel). Fuel adventures by eating chile (try the signature breakfast burritos or green chile stew) and sinking a few citrusy cocktails on the Margarita Trail. Then it's time to get cultural at the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum and the IAIA Museum of Contemporary Native Arts before picking up local arts and crafts from the characterful shops in the historic Plaza.

Is it easy to get in and around Santa Fe?

Unusually, this state capital only has a regional airport – most international travelers arrive in Albuquerque. From Albuquerque, there are shuttles to Santa Fe by road and rail. Groome Transportation offers point-to-point transfers around or the Rail Runner Express train, which takes 1½ hours.

Once in Sante Fe, the plaza and downtown areas are walkable, and buses (with Santa Fe Trails) are available for a dollar a ride. Those with their own wheels may struggle to find parking during the busier months. The state visitor center (on Paseo de Peralta) is a good place to park for exploring the Plaza. You’ll need your own car to visit the outskirts of Santa Fe and the terrific national monuments, forests and preserves.

The best things to do in Santa Fe

Roam around plazas and churches

The heart of the city is some 400 years old, with adobe houses surrounding a grassy square. The Plaza is the ideal place to peruse various artisan galleries and craft stores. Nearby, the mid-19th century Romanesque Revival style St Francis Cathedral could have been plucked from Spain, but step inside for New Mexico folk art on the walls. To the south, the Loretto Chapel was built by French and Italian architects in Gothic style in 1878; the highlight is its wooden staircase with two 360-degree turns. Meanwhile, the San Miguel Mission is believed to be the oldest Catholic Church in the US; it was rebuilt after the Pueblo Revolt in 1710 and next door, you can spot the oldest house in the US – the blue doored Casa Vieja.

Go in search of margaritas

A fun trail created by 50 local businesses directs thirsty visitors to the city’s best margaritas. Stop by the Santa Fe Visitor Center (66 E San Francisco St) to pick up a free paper map or download the app. You get one dollar off your drinks with the map. Do it over multiple days, and get two stamps every 12 hours at each bar to win prizes.

Get thrills outdoors

Come winter, fresh powder can be found in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains a short drive from town. Ski Santa Fe offers day passes on its seven lifts and 86 runs. The North Central Regional District offers free buses up the mountain with stops at trailheads on the way. In spring, summer and fall, there are hikes aplenty on the mountain. Aspen Vista is a great full-day easy hike – or half-day mountain-bike – for 11.5 miles along the path of an old dirt road.

See Georgia O’Keeffe's largest collection of art

Esteemed artist Georgia O’Keeffe may not be from New Mexico, but she lived and worked here, and some of her most evocative pieces include scenes of New Mexico. See some of her legendary work at Santa Fe’s Georgia O’Keeffe Museum with 150 of O'Keeffe's oil paintings, as well as her personal property and photos of her at age 90, nine years before she died in 1986. It’s possible to stay overnight at Ghost Ranch where she lived, surrounded by 21,000 acres of desertscapes and towering rock walls.

My favorite thing to do in Santa Fe

Wandering the buildings of downtown Santa Fe is a wonderful way to soak up the history of the area, with eye-catching examples of the Pueblo Revival architectural style, which dates back to the late 1800s and draws inspiration from adobe mud-brick pueblos and Spanish Missions with rounded corners and flat roofs. Aside from exploring outside, there’s nowhere quite like stepping into another realm inside the psychedelic world of Meow Wolf – an immersive place created by Game of Thrones author and Santa Fe resident George RR Martin with help from 135 artists inside an abandoned bowling alley. A feast for the senses not easily defined, there’s a Glowquarium, a forest of neon trees with an astronaut, a washing machine you can climb inside and kaleidoscopic art everywhere.

How much money do I need for Santa Fee?

Santa Fe is roughly a third more expensive than other cities in New Mexico in terms of living costs. Leisure costs (eating out, attractions, drinks) are slightly more expensive than other New Mexico towns and cities, but Santa Fe is considered cheaper than many other state capitals for expenses across the board. Debit, credit cards and Apple Pay are widely accepted everywhere. Use cash for farmers markets.

Hostel room: US$10–15
Basic room for two: $90–150
Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): $150+
Public transport ticket: Buses free or $1, trains from $11, transfers to other towns and cities from $50
Coffee: $3–8
Burrito: $8–18
Dinner for two: $30–100
Beer/pint at the bar: $6–12
Margarita: $12–20

Is the high altitude a problem for visitors?

Sitting at 7000ft, Santa Fe is the US’s highest state capital. It’s best not to do too much the first day when you arrive in Santa Fe. Take things easy while acclimatizing, get a good night’s sleep, drink lots of water (you lose water much faster at high altitudes) and go easy on the booze, which will make you more dehydrated. Watch for signs of altitude sickness (headaches, dizziness and shortness of breath).

What should I pack?

Winters are cold in Santa Fe, and summers are hot. The most pleasant time to visit is in spring or fall, but the nights can get chilly. Bring layers for exploring the desert or high-altitude peaks, so you’re prepared for all weathers.

How spicy is the chile?

New Mexico is the self-proclaimed chile capital of the world, and the spice fruit is smothered on everything from burgers and burritos to ice cream. Green chile usually has a mild flavor, but if you don’t like a spicy kick, it’s best to tell your server in advance – or else your dish may arrive hotter than expected. 

What do drivers need to know?

Driving conditions can include snow, dust storms and flash floods, so check reports before you venture somewhere remote near Santa Fe or head up the mountain. Snow tires may be required in winter.