First-time guide to Kakadu & Nitmiluk National Parks

Up in Australia’s steamy Top End, a trio of national parks – Kakadu, Nitmiluk and Litchfield – provide a showreel for some of the nation's most beautiful and elemental landscapes. Subject to cycles of wet and dry seasons, bathed in hues of the deepest reds, greens and blues, these are quintessential Aussie landscapes. 

Each offers something different. The smallest of the three, Litchfield National Park is where waterfalls tumble into swimmable waterholes. Kakadu is one of Australia’s largest and most-visited national parks, and located on its southern edge is Nitmiluk National Park, known for its 13 impressive sandstone gorges. All three provide a backdrop to one of the oldest cultures on earth, where stories are told through the millennia-old rock art adorning red-walled escarpments and rivers cut through the cliffs, filling rockholes with water and wildlife, including crocodiles. 

Most travelers fly into Darwin. From there they take advantage of the excellent roads that connect the parks; distances can be considerable, though not by Aussie standards. In both Kakadu and Nitmiluk, taking a tour led by a First Nations guide is an essential part of the experience, allowing you to dive deeply into the history of these ancient landscapes.

When should I visit Kakadu & Nitmiluk National Parks?

Although there are variations on the theme, the Northern Territory’s Top End has two main seasons – wet and dry. Which one of these you choose to travel in will have a strong impact on how you experience these special places.

The Dry Season (which locals refer to as “the Dry”) is generally the best time to visit. It usually runs from around April or May through to October. Sometimes the rains hang on into April, but by May or June the skies are generally clear and temperatures relatively mild; the coolest months are June to August. Temperatures begin to rise again in September, and by October (a period known locally as “the build-up”), temperatures and humidity rise, often to uncomfortable levels before the arrival of the rains. The rains are a relief when they come, cooling things down considerably.

Apart from offering the most pleasant conditions for traveling, the Dry also makes it easier to get around. Roads, including most unpaved side roads, remain open and passable, and all businesses catering to tourists are open.

The wet season (or “the Wet”) is more complicated. Besides the rains that can disrupt travel plans, hiking trails and many roads become inundated with water, and many businesses close. In normal years, the first rains usually arrive in November, and continue through until March. It rarely rains all day, every day throughout this period. In November, for example, you’re more likely to encounter an intense tropical thunderstorm for a couple of hours in the afternoon. Rains are at their most intense in February and March.

On the plus side, the Wet fills rivers, waterfalls flow strongly and the whole landscape transforms into the most wonderful shades of green.

How many days do I need in Kakadu & Nitmiluk National Parks?

At a bare minimum, plan on three days in Kakadu National Park, two in Nitmiluk, plus an extra day for traveling between the two. If you’re visiting from, and returning to, Darwin, you’ll need another half-day at least to get back to where you started. And add in an extra day if you decide to visit Litchfield National Park. That means you’ll need a week to see it all, plus an extra day for Litchfield.

All of that said, an extra day or two in each place (including up to five full days in Kakadu) will allow you to enjoy a good mix of tours, hikes, afternoons spent swimming in rockholes and simply relaxing. You may also want to factor in a day in Darwin at either end of your trip.

Is it easy to get in and around Kakadu & Nitmiluk National Parks?

Darwin is the gateway to these Top End parks. Whether at the airport or in Darwin’s city center, there are plenty of car rental companies. As a general rule, you won’t need a 4WD, as the roads are excellent. The only exceptions are the unpaved roads into Jim Jim Falls (which is 4WD-only) or the waterholes of Maguk and Gunlom, which have short unpaved sections; both are generally fine during the Dry in a 2WD.

It’s around 250km (155 miles) from Darwin to Jabiru (the only township within Kakadu National Park), around 300km (186 miles) from Jabiru to Katherine (the closest town to Nitmiluk National Park), and about 320km (199 miles) back to Darwin. Roads are generally in excellent condition, and traffic is usually quite light.

However, if you’re not comfortable driving or don’t have access to a vehicle, many tour operators offer single-day and multi-day guided trips to Kakadu, Nitmiluk and Litchfield from Darwin.

Top things to do in Kakadu & Nitmiluk National Parks

Whichever of the national parks you decide to visit, you’re in for a treat that includes soulful Aboriginal tours, wildlife, rock art and landscapes of sweeping, panoramic beauty.

Kakadu National Park

UNESCO World Heritage-listed Kakadu is one of the world’s great national parks, renowned for its combination of exceptional landscapes, First Nations culture and wildlife that you only find in Australia. Kakadu has over 60 mammal species, more than 280 bird species, 120 recorded species of reptile, 25 species of frog, 55 freshwater fish species and at least 10,000 different kinds of insects. 

At 19,816 sq km (7651 sq miles), the park is massive. Most choose to stay either at Jabiru or Cooinda, in the heart of the park.  Narrowing down what to do, however, can be more challenging, with several highlights to choose from.

Ubirr

Sheltering one of the richest collections of rock art in the Southern Hemisphere, Ubirr is an astonishing place. Here you’ll find walls adorned with all manner of creatures ancient and extant, including the thylacine (often erroneously called the Tasmanian tiger), which hasn’t been seen on the Australian mainland in thousands of years. There’s also a special panel that depicts the story of the Rainbow Serpent whose journey across the earth during the Dreaming, or tjurkurrpa, helped bring the earth into being.

Apart from the rock art, Ubirr is also the place to be at sunset. A trail leads beyond the rock panels and climbs to the Nardab Lookout, a rocky platform with expansive views out across floodplains, escarpments and rocky outcrops to the far horizon. Keep an eye out for dingoes or kangaroos on the plains, with large flocks of birds above. It’s the best view anywhere in Kakadu, and it’s where many travelers fall irretrievably in love with the park.

Cahill’s Crossing & East Alligator River

Where Kakadu ends and the restricted Indigenous area of Arnhem Land begins, the East Alligator River is one of the park’s signature attractions. It’s worth noting that the river’s name is something of a misnomer – there are no alligators here. But there are crocs in abundance – the river is the best place in Australia to see saltwater crocodiles.

As a starting point, Cahill’s Crossing is the causeway between Kakadu and Arnhem Land. Impassable during the Wet, it has an elevated lookout where you can peer down on the crossing and the crocs that lurk on either side. But to truly experience the river’s charms, take one of the hour-long boat tours. Led by First Nations guides, the tours take you up close with the crocs, but also through the local stories inspired by the picturesque riverside landscapes.

Nourlangie

A rival to Ubirr when it comes to rock art, the towering escarpment walls and deep valleys of Nourlangie are another must-see. From the car park, a 2km (1.2 miles) walking trail takes you past some of the more impressive rock art panels. There’s a handful at the Anbangbang Shelter, where First Nations people have rested and taken refuge from the elements for 20,000 years. But the painting a little further on of Nabulwinjbulwinj, a dangerous spirit who likes to eat females after banging them on the head with a yam, is arguably the single most impressive of all rock paintings in the Kakadu area.

Having seen the rock art, climb up through the valley to the Gunwarddehwarde Lookout, where rocky trails run along the ridge with outstanding views across the escarpments.

Cooinda & Yellow Water

Out in Kakadu’s western reaches, Cooinda and Yellow Water (Ngurrungurrundjba) consist of a series of wetlands rich in wildlife and some of Kakadu’s best sunsets. It’s also where you’ll find accommodation, courtesy of Cooinda Lodge and the Yellow Water Campground. (Indigenous-owned accommodation is also available in Jabiru.)

Cruises departing from near the lodge head out onto the water throughout the day (try for one at sunrise or sunset) and they’re a fine opportunity to see and learn about the abundant local birdlife, croc population and superb wetland scenery.

While you’re here, visit the excellent Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre with excellent exhibits on First Nations culture and history, including an explanation of the fascinating "six seasons of Kakadu." It’s a fantastic way to dive a little deeper into local Indigenous culture.

Jim Jim Falls & Twin Falls

If you’re feeling adventurous, have a 4WD, and the road is open, these two waterfalls are simply superb. As few people make it out here, the ringing silence of the area can be haunting in its beauty. Jim Jim Falls has a 215m (705ft) drop off the escarpment, although there’s barely any water by the middle of the Dry season. Twin Falls is almost as spectacular, more accessible, and the waters remain here year-round.

The Rockholes

Off the road between Jabiru and Cooinda, well-maintained dirt tracks run to two most magnificent waterholes, each surrounded by palm trees and dense vegetation and set against the backdrop of red-rock cliffs.

Gunlom is the largest and most accessible of the two, with a large lake beneath towering cliffs. If it has reopened after restoration works and legal disputes (the first track strayed too close to a First Nations sacred site), climb to the top of the cliff and relax in the infinity pool right by the precipice – it’s one of Australia’s best swims and the views are incredible. Swimming is also possible down in the large rockhole at the base, but check the signs for recent (freshwater) croc sightings.

Further west, Maguk involves a pretty scramble through a forest and along a dry riverbed to a delightful and (usually) croc-free waterhole. It’s a more intimate site than Gunlom, encircled by low but stunning cliffs.

Nitmiluk National Park

Few parks can match the natural beauty of Nitmiluk. Arrayed across 13 sandstone gorges, the park has almost as many ways to explore it. Situate yourself in nearby Katherine or directly in the park near the gorges.

The Gorges

Nitmiluk (also known as Katherine Gorge) is one of Australia’s most storied (and most dramatic) landscapes. The 13 gorges begin around 30km (18.6 miles) east of Katherine, and what makes the whole experience extra special is that the gorges are almost impossible to see, and even impossible to imagine, until you’re right there among them.

Undoubtedly the best way to experience the park is to stay at the campground, cabins or luxury resort, Cicada Lodge, right near the gorge entrance, and take an early morning tour. 

This usually begins with a boat cruise, led by a well-informed Indigenous local Jawoyn guide who takes you through everything from creation stories and local traditions to informative dissertations on local plants and animals: it’s a fascinating experience. Depending on which tour you take and how many gorges you visit, you’ll switch often between boats and walking trails, and you even get time for a swim. As a bare minimum, take the Two Gorge Tour, to really see the best that the landscape has to offer. Many travelers love the tours so much that they come back for another the following day. You can also explore First Gorge in a rented canoe.

Hiking

There are so many hiking trails heading off into the wilds in and around Nitmiluk that it ranks as one of northern Australia’s least-known and most rewarding hiking destinations. From the visitor center, the classic Baruwei Lookout Walk (1.8km/1.1 miles) climbs steeply to an overview of the gorges – if you were only to do one walk in the area, this would be it. From here, and from the visitor center, longer walks probe ever deeper into the gorges, with many trails running along the ridgelines that frame the gorges from above. Expect spectacular views at almost every turn.

And for serious hikers, there’s the epic Jatbula Trail, a 66km (41 miles) odyssey that takes you past local landmarks such as Biddlecombe Cascades, Crystal Falls, the Amphitheatre and Sweetwater Pool.

Litchfield National Park

Litchfield is the most accessible – and most compact – of the Top End’s parks: lots of travelers visit here on a day trip from Darwin and it often ends up being many visitors’ favorite park. The only problem with its ease of access? It can also mean that it’s the most crowded of the three parks. Is it still worth it? Absolutely.

Like Kakadu and Nitmiluk, Litchfield is a picturesque world of rocky escarpments and waterholes, with the undoubted highlights among many being Buley Rockhole, Florence Falls and Wangi Falls. Throw in some weirdly wonderful features like the Magnetic Termite Mounds and the otherworldly rock formations of the Lost City, and there’s plenty to capture your attention. If you make Litchfield an overnight stop en route between Katherine and Darwin – the small town of Batchelor close to the park gate has lots of accommodation – you can keep one step ahead of the tour buses visiting from Darwin.

My favorite thing to do in Kakadu National Park

If I had to choose my favorites out of the roughly 700 national parks in Australia, Kakadu would make my top three. I love its wildlife, landscapes and the sense of deep time that comes from contemplating rock art painted more than 10,000 years ago. But nothing compares with the sunset climb to Nardab Lookout at Ubirr, and the views out over the floodplains. Only there does the sheer scale of Kakadu unfold and make sense, bathed in those classic blues, greens and reds of the Australian landscape, all burnished by the warm light of a Kakadu sunset.

How much money do I need for Kakadu & Nitmiluk National Parks?

A visit to and around the Northern Territory’s Top End can be expensive. In addition to essentials such as fuel, food and accommodation, you need to factor in the cost of tours at both Kakadu and Nitmiluk.

• Hotel room: A$150-300 Australian dollars (US$95-190)

• Hiring a car/4WD for the day: A$100/200 (US$63-126)

• Tour per person per day: A$150-400 (US$95-253)

• Counter meal in a pub: A$30-50 (US$19-32)

• Per liter of fuel: A$2.20-2.80 (US$1.39-1.77)

Things you should know in Kakadu & Nitmiluk National Parks

Driving in Kakadu & Nitmiluk National Parks

While driving in the Top End shouldn’t present too many problems, there are some things to know before you set out. 

• Speed limits on major Northern Territory roads are usually 130km/h (80 mph).

• Check the insurance policy on your rental vehicle; not every 4WD is allowed to leave the paved road.

• Be aware of the road trains (three-to-four-trailer trucks, over 50m/164ft long) that rumble between Katherine and Darwin. Overtaking requires more than a kilometer of open road.

• Never drive after dark unless you have no choice. It’s when wildlife is most active and most likely to cross the road without warning.

Visiting Arnhem Land

Although not technically a part of Kakadu, Arnhem Land – east across the East Alligator River – is an enduring presence wherever you are in Kakadu. Many visitors to the park take a day tour that crosses into Arnhem Land, taking in its rock art sites, stirring landscapes and Injalak Arts, an art center in the Gunbalanya (Oenpelli) where you can sit and watch Indigenous artists at work and make purchases from the excellent shop. To visit further into Arnhem Land independently, you’ll need to arrange a permit from the Northern Land Council in Jabiru.

Kakadu & Nitmiluk National Parks Festivals

First Nations Festivals are an important part of the Top End experience. If you attend one, book vehicles and accommodation months in advance. Some of the better festivals include:

• Barunga Festival (June) Held over a wonderful long weekend in Barunga, 80km (50 miles) east of Katherine, with traditional arts, crafts, dancing, music, and more.

• Beer Can Regatta (June) Typically offbeat Territorian celebration with races for boats made out of beer cans at Mindil Beach in Darwin.

• Garma Festival (August) Australia’s largest Indigenous cultural gathering, held on Yolngu Country in northern East Arnhem Land over four days.

• Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair (August) Held over three days, this serious art festival features First Nations art from across the Northern Territory.

• Mahbilil Festival (September) Spear-throwing, didgeridoo competitions, bush foods and live local music on one busy day in Jabiru.