A first-time guide to Aarhus

Denmark's second-largest city sits quietly on the eastern coast of the Jutland peninsula, just living its best life as the happiest city in the world (according to the Institute for Quality of Life, anyway). Not only that, Aarhus was also proudly the 2017 European Capital of Culture.

So while Copenhagen takes the plaudits as that international beacon of Scandi sophistication, Aarhus should be given a closer look as the good vibes here aren’t restricted to the locals. From quirky Danish attractions like Den Gamble By living museum to magnificent food experiences, there’s plenty to enjoy about this underrated city 185km (115 miles) northwest of the capital. 

Want to feel as content as the locals do? Here’s a first-time guide to Aarhus.

When should I go to Aarhus?

Northern European cities always make the most of their short summers and Aarhus is no different, with a variety of festivals taking place including the multi-discipline Aarhus Festival on the last Friday in August, June’s ultra cool Northside music festival and the more genteel flower festival in Tivoli Friheden. The general lack of tourists makes summer a good time to visit too.

Crisp powder blue skies form pretty autumnal and winter scenes in Aarhus when the temperature drops, with the sleek restaurants and cafes feeling all the cozier for it. 

How much time should I spend in the Aarhus?

Two to three days is the most you’ll need to see Aarhus’s main attractions. However it’s worth planning ahead as places like Den Gamble By are large and family-oriented, while you also may want to time attractions with nice rooftop viewing platforms to coincide with a pretty late afternoon/evening sunset. 

If you have a week available, then pairing Aarhus with Copenhagen for a two-city Denmark jaunt could be a good idea (it’s around a 3-hour train to the Danish capital). 

Is it easy to get in and around Aarhus?

Most visitors will arrive at Aarhus Airport which is unusually far from the center (around 40km/25 miles), for a city of this size. The 925x bus runs regularly and takes around 50 minutes to reach central Aarhus, with card payments on board or tickets available through the Midttrafik app. 

Aarhus Central Station receives passengers from Copenhagen, as well as international connections with big German cities like Hamburg and Berlin. 

Aarhus’s walkable compact center makes taking the bus and tram (Letbane) somewhat redundant, but there are day passes available through Midttrafik which might be more useful in bad weather or with kids in tow. 

Top things to do in Aarhus

Walk through a rainbow at ARoS

ARoS is one of the largest art museums in Northern Europe, with around one million visitors per year coming to see its impressive exhibitions and works (including Ron Mueck’s striking 16ft-high sculpture Boy) filling out its ten floors. 

The highlight however, is the 150m-long rainbow rooftop panorama designed by Olafur Eliasson. With spectacular 360-degree views of the city seen through the jaunty prism of a circular rainbow walkway that changes color as you move, it’s a photographer’s dream.

Lose yourself in the Botanical Gardens

Perched on a nearby hill are the Aarhus Botanical Gardens, founded in 1875 and now dominated by the shell-like shape of its tropical greenhouses. Housing over 5000 species of tropical and subtropical plants from four different climate zones, these gardens are a fine way to take a break from the hum of the city in a relaxing green space that also comes with a sweeping view of Den Gamble By from above. Entry is free.

Dive into harborside activities

There’s a glorious serenity to Aarhus’s harbor complex, but it also showcases some weird and wonderful architecture. Dokk1 houses Scandinavia's largest library, but its jagged shape and smattering of sculpture are what bring the intrigue here. Further north, the stylish Harbor Bath offers perfect summertime refreshment if it gets too hot. 

The best way to see Aarhus’s impressive harbor redevelopment is to take a 1-hour trip onboard the historic M/S Helene with Aros Cruises.

Sip on quality craft beer

Copenhagen’s ubiquitous Carlsberg dominates the Danish brewing scene, but Aarhus houses a host of splendid craft beer bars. Located on the fringes of the city’s historic Latin Quarter, Mig & Ølsnedkeren is a breezy modern bar with over 20 beers on tap, while Hantwerk’s waterfront location makes it perfect for drinking away the long summer days and there’s plenty of room for seating outside too

With its low-lit interior and Twin Peaks-inspired decor, Erlings Jazz- & Ølbar is a seductive street-corner joint dripping with cool. The regularly updated 14-strong beer board features IPAs, porters and sours, and they host live jazz music every Saturday and some Wednesdays.

Sample some sublime food

Aarhus has some serious foodie chops, with an impressive four Michelin-star restaurants to its name showcasing the best in Danish fine dining. But start your gastronomic journey at Aarhus Street Food, a gregarious food court offering everything from Thai curry and American soul food to traditional Danish smørrebrød (open sandwiches).

And for something more immersive, Food Walk host both 2-hour and 4-hour walks sampling local flavors and making new friends on a stroll around this compact city.

See the city from above

ARoS offers fine views across Aarhus, but the rainbow walkway’s surreal appeal tends to dominate the affair. For the best views head to the Salling roof garden, hiding in plain sight above the city’s biggest shopping centre. 

The multilayered rooftop is dotted with plants, while music flows and cocktails are poured from the cafe-bar. Summer evenings here are a joy.

My favorite thing to do in Aarhus

I’ve been to living museums before and always appreciate the effort put into bringing distant time periods back to life through authentic environments and passionate characters. But Den Gamle By ("The Old Town") does things a little differently. 

If you want to see the quaint cottages and townhouses of Hans Cristian Andersen’s time then that’s all here, but it’s the rare focus on a more recent past that truly caught my attention. 

Have a look around Paul’s Radio shop, a 1974 music and electronics store filled with classic vinyl, dusty cassettes and chunky antique color televisions (that are all available to purchase). Moving even further through time into living memory is the 2014 street, with its 7-Eleven, solarium and even a Blockbuster video store which really cranks up my millennial nostalgia. 

And I’m not normally one to succumb to nostalgia either, but this is one of the most original attractions I've visited in recent years and brings the day to a fascinating close.

How much money do I need for Aarhus?

• Hostel room: 210-220kr (US$30-40)

• Basic room for two: 800-900kr (US$110-125)

• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): 600-700kr (US$85-95)

• Public transport day ticket: 49kr (US$7)

• Coffee: 35kr (US$5)

• Sandwich: 60kr (US$8.50)

• Dinner for two: 600kr (US$85)

• Beer/pint at the bar: 35/70kr (US$4.80/9.60)

Is English widely spoken?

Due to the relative lack of tourists, you may get initially addressed in Danish but virtually everybody here speaks English to a high level (though practicing the local lingo is always welcome). 

Can I use euros here?

No, you’ll need Danish krone if you’re paying by cash, though paying through card or your phone is so pervasive that it won’t matter if you forget to bring the local currency.