Where to find the best tapas in Seville

Delicious, irresistible tapas are perhaps Spain’s most famous food. Savory dishes serves in small portions, tapas originated as simple snacks served with drinks – a bowl of olives, perhaps, or a slice of tortilla (a thick potato-and-egg omelet). Yet over time, tapas have become increasingly elaborate – a category of cuisine unto itself.

Since the word “tapa” means lid or a cover, one possible tapas origin story goes that, in less sanitary times, a piece of bread and ham or a small plate of olives would be placed on top of a glass to keep out dirt and insects. However tapas emerged, it’s certain they did so in in Andalucía – and Seville, the capital of the fabled region, remains one of the best places in the country to savor this culinary tradition.

From the classic to the highly imaginative, the tapas at these five restaurants – four in the Casco Viejo, and one further afield – are worth seeking out. Here’s where to find the best tapas in Seville.

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1. El Rinconcillo

The vibe: Classic, timeless Seville
Can’t-miss dish: Espinacas con garbanzos

In operation since 1670, El Rinconcillo is the oldest bar in Seville and has been run by the De Rueda family since 1858. This grande dame remains a Seville classic, with decor that includes an antique wooden bar and ceiling beams. Colorful ceramic tiles, made in the working-class Triana neighborhood, cover the walls.

One of the bar’s stand-out offerings is espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas), a classic Andalucian dish that was influenced by Moorish culture. It’s typically spiced with cumin, and sometimes enhanced with pine nuts and raisins. The preparation at El Rinconcillo goes above and beyond, thanks to in the inclusion of coriander, ginger and cloves. The recipe also calls for a secret flavor from the bone of a leg of ham.

Make it happen: Open 1–5:30pm and 8pm–12:30am Mon, Wed and Fri–Sun; 1–5pm and 8pm–1am Thu. Reservations recommended.

2. Donald

The vibe: Simple, efficient elegance
Can’t-miss dish: Ensaladilla rusa

Located near the Museo de Bellas Artes, this bullfighting-themed bar and restaurant is covered from wall to wall in old posters and memorabilia. It first opened in 1973 as Bar Donald Duck; after Walt Disney threatened to sue over the name, it was changed to simply Donald. The bar-restaurant is now owned by Mariano García, who used to wait tables there.

We recommend Donald’s classic ensaladilla rusa (Russian salad), a type of potato salad with added extras, including tuna, peas, carrots and pieces of hard-boiled egg and sometimes prawns, all smothered in mayonnaise. Ensaladilla rusa is served at almost every bar in the city and has become the litmus test for whether the other tapas dishes are good or not. At Donald, it’s outstanding. As is everything else on the menu.

Make it happen: Open: noon–midnight daily.

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3. Las Teresas

The vibe: Old-school romance
Can’t-miss dish: Jamón

Located within the old Jewish neighborhood of Santa Cruz, and near Seville’s famous cathedral, Las Teresas has been welcoming customers since 1870. Legs of jamón (ham) hang from the rafters, while ceramic tiles and old bullfighting posters adorn the walls.

The order of the day here is, of course, a plate of the cherry-red jamón, a simple and traditional classic. Las Teresas serves the prized jamón ibérico de bellota, a cured leg of ham made from pure-breed Iberian pigs who are fattened on acorns. If you want to branch out from cured meats, the morrillo de atún (grilled tuna neck) is also delicious here.

Make it happen: Open: 11am–midnight daily. Tapas dishes can only be ordered at the bar, while the tables are for the larger raciónes. As it’s located in a very touristy part of town, Las Teresas can get very busy, so come early.

4. Bar Estrella

The vibe: Tile-heavy romance
Can’t-miss dish: Solomillo al whisky

Tucked down a tiny side street a 5-minute walk from the cathedral, this small, traditional spot boasts a charming ceramic-tiled bar. At night, things get ultra romantic, as lamps illuminate the tables that line the cobbled sidewalk.

A star of the menu is the solomillo al whisky, slow-cooked pork in a whisky sauce that’s been a staple on Seville menus since the 1960s. At Bar Estrella, the meat arrives on a bed of fries for an extra dose of decadence. Other good dishes to order here include the Cabrales cheese croquetas with caballo de ángel (a sweet Siam-pumpkin pulp), and the cola del toro (stewed oxtail).

Make it happen: Open: noon–midnight daily. Reservations are recommended, particularly if you want to dine outside.

5. Freiduría El Arrecife

The vibe: Homage to the sea
Can’t-miss dish: Pescaíto frito

With fishing nets hanging from its walls, alongside nautical-themed lamps and porthole mirrors, Freiduría El Arrecife, in the El Porvenir neighborhood, is a temple to seafood. Accordingly, there might be no better place in the city to try the Sevillian staple pescaíto frito, a plate of battered fried fish and seafood.

The secret to this excellent seafood platter? Fish that’s always fresh, never frozen, and brought in directly from the coast each day. New flour and oil are used for each day’s batch as well. Pescaíto frito are cooked each morning before Freiduría El Arrecife opens for lunch; a new batch is cooked before the dinner service.

Make it happen: Open: 1–4pm and 8–11pm Tue–Thu, 1–4pm Sun. It’s just as popular for takeout as for eating in.

How to eat tapas like a local in Seville

Tapas are made for sharing, and the idea is to order several different ones with a drink, such as a glass of wine or a beer. Remember, you don’t need to order all your dishes at once; you can order a couple, then order a couple more, so that they don’t all come at the same time.

It’s worth keeping in mind that at some bars in Seville, tapas are only served sitting at the bar, which you’ll order directly from the bar staff. If you want to sit down and enjoy table service, a waiter will come and take your order. Often, you’ll be expected to order raciónes instead of tapas in this case. These are similar to tapas but are much larger and are best when you’re in a big group of friends or with family. If you’re a solo traveler or a couple, you’ll want to stick to medias raciones (smaller, bar-sized plates).

Meal times in Spain

Spaniards eat much later than in many parts of the world – and even later in Andalucía than in the rest of Spain. Don’t expect to go out for dinner at 6pm; chances are that nowhere will be open. Most places open around 8pm, but you won’t find locals dining until at least 9pm, and more likely 10pm or even 11pm.

It’s also worth noting that Spaniards tend to eat their main meal of the day at lunchtime. This will be a hot cooked dish, sometimes a menú del día, which is a set three-course meal featuring a starter, main, dessert or coffee. Dinner is often lighter, such as small tapas dishes.

Indeed, going out for tapas and a few drinks in the evening is a national pastime. While you’ll sometimes see cold tapas displayed behind Seville bars, there’s almost always a menu, either on paper or chalked up behind the bar. Raciones (large tapas servings) and medias raciones (smaller tapas servings) are good for sharing, often overlapping with platillos (small plates), though the latter often have a more creative twist.

Should you tip in Spain?

Though tipping isn’t obligatory in Spain, it’s definitely appreciated. In restaurants, 5% to 10% (more common these days) is usually appropriate; for bars and cafes, people sometimes leave loose change. If paying by card, you can usually ask to add the tip to the bill total and pay it all in one go.