El Porvenir

This well-run family bodega has recently been taken over by the 30-something daughter, who knows how to keep good torrontés from touching corrupting oak (you may have noticed that most torrontés is a bit oaky and round). Here, it's dry, as is the splendid rosé, and its reds have always been fantastic. The tour is free, but generous tastings cost from AR$100, depending on which wines you want to try. Reserve by phone.