Must-see nightlife in French Alps & the Jura Mountains

  • Chambre Neuf

    Chamonix

    A favourite among seasonal workers letting off steam, 'Room 9' boasts the most spirited (rather, loudest) après-ski party in Cham (from 3pm or 4pm). There…

  • Le 365

    Grenoble

    Good-humoured mixologists preside over a fabulous cocktail list at this chic and ever-so-slightly risqué bar. Sip one of myriad mojito varieties –…

  • Captain Pub

    Annecy

    It's best not to examine too closely this convivial boozer's Irish pub credentials. But after a genuine welcome and finding a seat in the warren of…

  • Bistrot des Sports

    Chamonix

    In the 19th century, climbing parties used to assemble in the Bistrot des Sports before setting out to conquer Mont Blanc. A merry medley of mountaineers,…

  • Le Zinc

    Grenoble

    Evoking an old-timey train station, complete with looming clock and retro tiled floor, Le Zinc is a favourite among local wine lovers. The owners are…

  • MBC

    Chamonix

    This Canadian-run microbrewery is one of Chamonix' most unpretentious and gregarious watering holes, pouring its own locally made blonde, stout, pale ale,…

  • Folie Royale

    Annecy

    This handsome salon de thé has a master chocolatier staining his apron out back, as he hand-dips squares of ganache into chocolate, dices nougat and rolls…

  • Green Man

    Besançon

    Formerly trading heavily on an Irish pub theme, these days the Green Man is a genteel, convivial place for coffee or an aperitif, decorated with musical…

  • Jekyll & Hyde

    Chamonix

    This British-owned après-ski mainstay has a split personality: upstairs the 'Jekyll' has really good pub food (from seafood tapas and sweet and sour duck…

  • Les BerThom

    Grenoble

    Ten or more beers on tap, an industrial feel, and a mixed crowd of students and seasoned hop-heads: lively Les BerThom is beer heaven. Glug a Grisette for…

  • La Jonction

    Chamonix

    A friendly, low-key place to mingle with fellow skiers and hikers, La Jonction pours excellent coffee by day, and – when après-ski hour arrives – mixes…

  • Les Caves

    Chamonix

    Spread over four levels with cosy hidden corners, this futuristic/rustic disco chalet – stone archways, fancy disco balls, sleek leatherette seats –…

  • Bar'd Up

    Chamonix

    This Anglophone dive bar borrows Irish, English and Aussie insignia in its bid to be the friendliest, grungiest place in Cham. Setting the scene are a…

  • Beer O'Clock

    Annecy

    This laid-back, high-tech establishment serves beer like petrol stations sell gasoline: you only pay for what you pump. After buying credit on a…

  • Kai-Iwi

    Grenoble

    This welcoming coffee joint might just brew the best cup in Grenoble. The decor is pure New Zealand kitsch, and food follows the same theme (try avocado…

  • Brass'éliande

    Besançon

    This snug, woodsy pub is strung with fairy light and awash with a soft rock soundtrack – it's an easy-going den in which to perch on a bar stool and sip…

  • O’Cardinal’s

    Chambéry

    Crouching cheekily beneath the western façade of the cathedral is the most French 'Irish pub' you'll ever find. A genuine welcome sets the tone, and the…

  • Le Tord Boyaux

    Grenoble

    Attracting a spirited, student-filled crowd, this popular bar serves 40+ vins aromatisés (flavoured wines; €2.50) in an array of extravagant flavours:…

  • Brasserie du Commerce

    Besançon

    Going strong since 1873, the Brasserie du Commerce is the kind of venue where you brood beneath a chandelier-strung high ceiling while nursing a brimming…

  • Café des Félins

    Besançon

    Cats prowl, loiter and generally reign supreme at this concept cafe, which serves a fittingly cosy range of hot chocolates, cookies and tartines (open…

  • Café des Arts

    Annecy

    Hidden in plain sight near the Palais de l'Isle, this amiable cafe attracts a mix of tourists and artistic locals to nurse a coffee or vin rouge beneath…

  • Le Barista

    Annecy

    Hidden in a canalside arcade, this speciality coffee joint takes its time in pouring the perfect cappuccino. Though tiny, it attracts an animated mix of…

  • La Terrasse

    Chamonix

    In one of Chamonix' prime spots – two art deco storeys overlooking the main square and the chattering Arve – this British-style sports pub serves…

  • Office

    Chamonix

    This mellow pub cranks things up in the après-ski (or, in summer, après-mountain bike) hours, with DJs or live music a couple of nights a week (including…

  • La Renaissance

    Grenoble

    With venerable stone walls, Belgian beer on tap and attentive staff, this is an atmospheric spot for an aperitif, or simply for an espresso during…

  • Les Caves du Château

    Annecy

    A sweet little wine bar at the foot of the castle, with an excellent array of wines by the glass (from €4), tasting platters of cheese, charcuterie and…

  • Aux Délices de Mademoizelle

    Chambéry

    Candy-sweet in both decor and menu, this pint-sized salon de thé has a pretty 'n' pink array of cupcakes to savour alongside a 76%-cocoa hot chocolate or…

  • Marotte et Charlie

    Besançon

    Loose-leaf teas and an out-of-the-ordinary dessert menu are good excuses to settle in at this salon de thé (tea rooms). Green and fruit teas infuse in…