Crouching cheekily beneath the western façade of the cathedral is the most French 'Irish pub' you'll ever find. A genuine welcome sets the tone, and the atmosphere gets merrier thanks to a dozen beers on tap and a good list of wines by the glass. Settle in on a leather banquette and ponder what these centuries-old stone walls have seen.
On warm days the bonhomie spills out on to the square.