Must-see nightlife in Bosnia & Hercegovina

  • Art Kuća Sevdaha

    Sarajevo

    Sit in the intimate fountain courtyard of an Ottoman-era building sipping Bosnian coffee, juniper or rose sherbet, or herb-tea infusions while nibbling…

  • Zlatna Ribica

    Sarajevo

    Sedate and outwardly grand, the tiny and eccentric 'Golden Fish' adds understated humour to a cosy treasure trove of antiques and kitsch, reflected in big…

  • Ima i Može Craft Beer Garden

    Mostar

    You're liable to hear old-school punk or Bowie blasting out of this open-sided wooden pavilion above the Radobolja River, given the predilections of the…

  • Black Dog Pub

    Mostar

    This Black Dog really starts to howl on summer nights, when musicians set up on the cobbles facing the Crooked Bridge and everyone lounges around on…

  • Café de Alma

    Mostar

    Step back to Ottoman times at this excellent coffee roastery, with a shady front terrace and cool interior. The only things served are homemade juices and…

  • Caffe 35

    Sarajevo

    If you're waiting for a train, what better place to do so than admiring a full city panorama from the 35th-floor cafe of the Avaz Twist Tower, just three…

  • Čajdžinica Džirlo

    Sarajevo

    Minuscule but brimming with character, Džirlo brews 29 types of tea, many of them made from distinctive Bosnian herbs. They are served in lovely little…

  • Tito

    Sarajevo

    Lighten the mood after the History Museum with a drink at this amusingly tongue-in-cheek cafe tucked around the back, where the many Tito photos are…

  • Coco Loco

    Mostar

    Lamps shaped like stylised leaves or fashioned from a punctured guitar create interesting lighting patterns over framed commemorations of the various…

  • OKC Abrašević

    Mostar

    Named after 19th-century proletarian poet Kosta Abrašević, this understatedly intellectual arts centre and associated Kosta cafe-bar make for Mostar's…

  • Dekanter

    Sarajevo

    It's easy to sit for hours sampling from more than 100 local and world vintages in this glorious, low-lit wine bar decorated with bottles, chateau-boxes…

  • Club Calamus

    Mostar

    Perched on top of an inauspicious-looking office building in the bombed-out part of town, this urbane rooftop bar offers cocktails and engrossing city…

  • Marshall

    Mostar

    With a ceiling covered with musical instruments, this music-pumping cafe-bar is named for an ancient Marshall speaker in the owner's collection, rather…

  • Garbun

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    On warm summer days this cafe's outdoor benches and open-sided lounge make ideal perches on which to slurp an ice cream or sip a Bosnian coffee while…

  • Cafe Barometar

    Sarajevo

    Like something out of HG Wells' Time Machine, this steampunk cafe-bar is liberally strewn with dials, pipes and furniture crafted from axles, compressors…

  • Underground

    Trebinje

    Trebinje's late-night bar of choice has old green shutters, trees growing through its terrace roof and a sign designed like a Jack Daniels label. Bands…

  • Monnet

    Banja Luka

    Raised above the river, this inviting wooden bar is decorated with wicker-work lampshades and backlit bottles of herb hooch. The music ranges from Serbian…

  • Dibek

    Sarajevo

    Packed with local youth smoking nargile (water pipes), this vaguely loungey cafe blares its music and spreads its colourful low stools beneath a central…

  • Male Daire

    Sarajevo

    This cute antique house is one of the most attractive nargile (water pipe) bars in the Old Town, with lots of outdoor tree-shaded seating. It is…

  • Terasa

    Mostar

    Half a dozen tables on an open-air perch terrace survey Stari Most and the old town towers from photogenic yet unexpected angles. Actual opening times are…

  • Beer Pub

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    Jajce's liveliest drinking spot has a big range of beer, hosts live music and has a little outdoor seating area tucked up against the cliff that's topped…

  • Birtija

    Sarajevo

    Popular with an artsy, bohemian crowd, this wonderful wee bar has an antiquey shabby-chic vibe. If it's packed downstairs (as it often is), head to the…

  • S One Sky Lounge

    Sarajevo

    On the rooftop of the eight-storey Marriott Courtyard Hotel, but reached by a special elevator outside, this is a great perch for sunset views over the…

  • Ljetna Bašta Oscar

    Mostar

    Layered through a large shady garden area, this cafe-bar and chill-out place creates an exotic feel with giant cushions, hammocks and colourful fabrics…

  • Tesla

    Sarajevo

    Contrasting with the pop-rock of the Anglo-Irish pubs nearby, Tesla's soundtrack is more contemporary and attracts a lively youthful crowd. The inventor's…

  • City Pub

    Sarajevo

    The interior of this spacious, friendly pub glows with a soft orange light but in summer most people opt for the covered street terrace. Live blues-jazz…

  • Restoran River Una

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    The prize seats are on a terrace that forms an arc so close to the crystal-clear Una that you can watch fish as you sip. The interior is more pub than…

  • The Loft

    Sarajevo

    Discreetly tucked away on the 6th floor of a nondescript central-city building, Sarajevo's only gay club offers cheap drinks, surprisingly good wine,…

  • Mac Tire

    Banja Luka

    Banja Luka's large subterranean Irish-style pub offers 10 different draught beers and lots of live music. The kitchen serves Anglo-Irish breakfasts,…

  • Maraton

    Banja Luka

    Behind a tiled wooden porch, this chilled-out pub is themed around a cult Yugo-era movie (The Marathon Family), with scenes turned into cartoon strips…

  • Caffe von Habsburg

    Sarajevo

    This charming little shoebox cafe-bar, with original brick-arched ceilings, is a veritable museum full of reproduced old pictures and memorabilia from the…

  • Duradžik

    Mostar

    This late-night rock-edged bar spills out into the central courtyard of the Tabhana (former tannery). There's live music most evenings around midnight.

  • Azzaro

    Trebinje

    The covered terrace of this popular Old Town cafe-bar is one of Trebinje's best see-and-be-seen spots.

  • Pink Houdini

    Sarajevo

    One of Sarajevo's rare 24-hour drinking spots, this quirky basement jazz and blues bar has a tree of guitars, a wacky mirrored ceiling sculpture and UV…

  • Cinemas Sloga

    Sarajevo

    This cavernous club in an old cinema caters to an excitable, predominantly student crowd dancing around inexplicably placed stool-tables. Monday nights…

  • Caffe Kamarija

    Sarajevo

    Close to the Yellow Fortress, this airy little cafe-bar surveys a fine sweep of city through waving curtains of foliage from its double-layered terrace…

  • Ali-Baba

    Mostar

    Take a gaping cavern in the raw rock, add a sound system and colourful flashing globe-lamps and hey presto, you have this one-off party bar. They…

  • Franz & Sophie

    Sarajevo

    There's no written menu at this temple to tea, just three tables, a dog asleep in the doorway and passionate staff who will talk you through the range,…

  • La Cava

    Sarajevo

    Flying the Spanish flag in central Sarajevo, this cosy little bar has street-side tables made from barrels and a good selection of wine by the bottle …

  • Konak Bečka Kafana

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    Inhabiting a lavishly restored 1906 former Austro-Hungarian officers' club, this 'Viennese' cafe serves ice cream and indulgent slabs of gateaux but no…

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