With a background at Noma in Copenhagen and the Dorrance at the Biltmore, chef Benjamin Sukle and his wife, Heidi, now have their own place: the understated but fabulously good birch. Its intimate size and style (seating surrounds a U-shaped bar) means attention to detail is exacting in both the decor and the food, which focuses on under-utilized, hyper-seasonal produce.
Take the humble pea: simmered in a butter broth made from the shells, clams and lemons, and then served with jasmine rice and green strawberries. Utterly exquisite.