Leave Smith St's revamped 'Chinatown Food Street' to the out-of-towners and join old-timers and foodies at this nearby labyrinth, now home to Michelin-starred Hawker Chan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle. You decide if the possible two-hour wait is worth it. Other standouts include mixed claypot rice at Lian He Ben Ji Claypot Rice and the rich satay at Shi Xiang Satay.
For a little TLC, opt for Ten Tonic Ginseng Chicken Soup at Shen Xi Soup. Come evening head over to Smith Street Taps for craft and premium beers on tap – not what you'd expect in a hawkers centre!
Stalls are open from early in the morning, with lunchtime and 5pm to 7pm being the busiest hours. Most places shut by 8pm, though a few remain open until after 10pm.