Arsenio's

The aroma of a loaded charcoal grill wafts along Rua de Santa Maria from Arsenio's, luring evening strollers into the old, atmospheric dining room, all basalt floors, ancient beams and leather chairs. Every evening from 7pm to 11pm, meals are taken with a dose of fado, Arsenio's being the best place on Madeira to experience Portugal's signature musical genre. Book ahead for the best seats.