Trattoria da Leo

Veteran Leo is famed for its friendly ambience and cheap food – ranging from plain-Jane acceptable to grandma delicious. Enticing sides include baked fennel with parmesan, oven-baked baby onions and peperonata (stewed peppers). Arrive early to snag one of a handful of tables squashed beneath parasols on the street outside. Otherwise it's noisy dining inside amid 1970s decor. No credit cards.