At the far end of town near the river is this popular hostel with a lovely backpacker vibe. Split over two buildings, rooms are really pleasant; the south-facing ones in the new wing are the best. Its rooftop terrace has magnificent views, and is best enjoyed digging into a wood-fired pizza with a cold beer.
There's also an attached cafe doing baguettes, western breakfasts and Chinese dishes. Staff are friendly and enthusiastic, and very helpful with ideas on things to do in the area. They rent bikes (per day ¥25) and arrange rock climbing from Nirvana Organic Farm Inn, which they also run in a village across the river.