Why you should add cultural Rouen (with its own Notre Dame) to your France itinerary

Two cities, both capitals, lying along the same river have identically-named cathedrals. The first is Paris, capital of France, and just 112 km/70 miles north-west is Rouen, capital of the ancient Duchy of Normandy. Victor Hugo wrote one novel about Paris’ Notre-Dame cathedral, but Claude Monet immortalized Rouen’s Notre Dame on canvas more than 30 times.

Both straddle an island in a broad meander of the Seine but in Rouen, just 80km/50 miles from the sea, the river is so broad and tidal that the university town of 243,500 is France’s fifth busiest maritime port and Western Europe’s leading grain port.

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If you want to escape from the hordes of tourists in Paris and see some truly grandiose Gothic architecture, an abundance of medieval timber-framed buildings, spectacular cherry-tree blossoms all within a 15-minute drive (half-hour cycle) from three forests then head to Rouen which is also the only city in France to be a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. So you’ll eat well!

​Why visit Rouen now?

In early October (from October 8-12 in 2025) the second “Taste of Rouen” festival will draw foodies and chefs from far and wide. This year the overarching theme is the cinema with film-inspired culinary experiences. Check out the detailed program here. While from the end of November through the end of December, the city is transformed for the festive season. The Christmas Market is a popular attraction with small white huts selling anything from sweet baked treats to artisan, handmade goods and the Rouen Givrée sees numerous festive celebrations take place like candelight concerts, DJ sets in the cathedral and ice-skating.

In 2026, the centenary of Impressionist artist Claude Monet’s death, Rouen is organizing numerous events collectively called the Normandy Impressionist Festival, most notably a new light and sound show on the facade of Notre Dame cathedral. Program details are not yet available.

And looking ahead to 2027, the ninth Rouen Armada, the world’s biggest four-yearly gathering of Tall Ships, will take place from June 17-27 accompanied by all sorts of activities in, on and around the ships with superb firework displays and free concerts every evening. 

In addition, 2027 is the European Year of the Normans to mark the 1,000th anniversary of the birth of William the Conqueror with numerous events organized throughout Normandy.

​Rouen’s best experiences

Be awed by the remarkable architectural heritage

The 11th century Notre Dame Gothic cathedral stands in the center of the historic city on the eastern bank of the Seine. It reaches up 151m, the highest building in Rouen and highest church in France. At its feet spreads a network of narrow cobblestone streets lined with beautifully conserved, colorful, timber-framed medieval houses and fruit trees whose blossoms enliven spring. Just opposite the cathedral you’ll see the former tax office, the oldest Renaissance building in town (currently under restoration) which is where Monet sat on the first floor to paint many of his famous views of the cathedral. It was a lingerie store at the time and the story goes that ladies were made uncomfortable by the artist’s presence so the owner eventually put a screen around him! Five minutes walk east will take you to the 15th century Saint-Maclou church whose five flamboyant Gothic arches are surmounted by triangles of delicate stonework.

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West of the cathedral, 200m down the rue du Gros Horloge, you’ll see a Renaissance building arching over the street whose intriguing clock-faces on either side of the arch have told the time since 1529. The 14th century belfry to its right houses a museum whose excellent audio-guide I highly recommend. From the top floor the view over town and cathedral is spellbinding. Almost next door is the 15th century flamboyant Gothic former parliament of Normandy which is now the law court so you can only see the exterior.

Follow in the footsteps of Joan of Arc (well, maybe not: it didn’t end well for her)

The Place du Vieux Marché in Rouen is where 19-yr old Joan of Arc was burned at the stake by the English. The exact spot is marked not by a statue nor an imposing monument but instead by a very simple knee-high stone panel in the midst of a flowerbed which simply states in three languages “the location where Joan of Arc was burnt on May 30th 1431". I find it extraordinarily moving. Just a few meters away, an architectural reminder of the tragedy is the flame-shaped, slate-tiled roof of the remarkable St Joan of Arc church designed by Louis Arretche in 1979. The floor to ceiling glass walls, a mix of simple modern and 16th century stained glass salvaged from the war-demolished St Vincent church, allow daylight to flood the interior.

Enjoy the best collection of Impressionist paintings outside Paris in the Musée des Beaux-Arts

An 8-minute walk from the Place du Vieux Marché will bring you to the leafy Charles Verdrel Square and the imposing neo-Renaissance facade of the Fine Arts Museum with the best collection of Impressionist paintings and sculptures outside the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, and notably one of Monet’s Rouen cathedral paintings ,but also an outstanding collection of artworks from the 15th century to today. You don’t need to reserve and there’s rarely a queue.

Just opposite the museum is the tourist office where you can buy a Rouen pass which, amongst other advantages, gives you access to all 12 museums, including the brilliant Musée de la Céramique, which showcases Rouen's history as the ceramics center of France. 

Explore the vibrant culinary scene

From enjoying a refined gastronomic lunch in Rouen’s Michelin-starred restaurant, the Odas for as little as €50/$58 per person and then tasting the Japanese chef’s take on French cuisine for a three-course dinner at the Au Flaméron for just €39.50/$47 (€59/$69 on Saturday evenings), to buying fresh produce either yourself from local farmers at the small covered market just next to St Jeanne d’Arc’s church or at the bigger St Marc outdoor market accompanied by a guide, Rouen offers something for every taste including vegetarians. But if you want to explore further then join a sweet and savory tour around Rouen with tasting of local products and if you’re worried about the calorie intake do more or less the same thing but at a brisk walk or jog!

Scallops with fresh cream or salt-marsh lamb may tempt you more than chitterlings sausage or tripe but all are traditional. Local cheeses include world-famous Camembert and lesser-known but just as delicious Neufchâtel, Pont-L'Évêque and Livarot. The region’s apples are turned into all sorts of delicious deserts but also juice, cider and Calvados liqueur.

Cycle the Seine à Vélo route and/or hike along the cliffs that overhang the river

After all the food you may want a bit of exercise. The Seine valley with its deep meanders is perfect for cycling. You can actually cycle all the way from Paris through Rouen to Le Havre (242 km/150 miles) or Deauville but occasional cyclists shouldn’t attempt this six-day trip. Better to head west along the Seine from Rouen into the Parc naturel régional des Boucles de la Seine Normande and take the fruit trial which will take you through Normandy’s rich orchards.

Closer to the city, you can reach the Panorama of the Côte Sainte-Catherine in half-hour on foot and about half that on a bicycle (a bit steep though the last bit!) and see the view over the whole city, river Seine and distant countryside as painted by… Monet of course!

​Where to stay in Rouen

Aim to stay in the historic city centre on the east (or right) bank which is where all the sights are and is walking distance from the train station. If you’re coming by car check out the hotels that offer parking facilities. Otherwise check out Rouen’s parking facilities (paying and free) here. There’s a wide choice between international brand hotels such as Novotel, Radisson Blu and Hyatt and boutique hotels such as the Hotel Flaubert , Hotel Paulette, Hotel de Quebec or Hotel de Dieppe just opposite the Art Nouveau train station.

If you want to splash out and stay in a Renaissance-era building try the Hotel de Bourgtheroulde, Rouen’s only five-star hotel.

​How to pair a visit to Paris with a visit to Rouen

If Paris is your point of entry into France then you can take one of the 34 trains a day that run from the Paris St-Lazare train station to Rouen Rive Droite. The journey takes 90 minutes and prices range from €10/$12 to €33,60/$39 depending on the time of day and your age. You must reserve in advance on SNCF Connect. It’s an easy walk downhill from the train station into town and the entire historic center can be visited on foot. If you want to use the very efficient public transport system on a Saturday it will be free but you still need to obtain a “gratuit” (free) ticket.

Beauvais airport, which serves a number of low-cost airlines, is exactly midway between Paris and Rouen but there is no direct public transport from the airport to Rouen (you’d need to go via Amiens which is a huge detour) so probably best to rent a car and drive the 87 km/ 54 miles to Rouen and visit Beauvais’ St Pierre cathedral on the way which boasts the world’s highest Gothic choir vault soaring 46.7m (157.4 feet) high.