A first-time guide to Phu Quoc

Located in the Gulf of Thailand, Phu Quoc (pronounced foo kwok) refers to an archipelago of 22 islands as well as Vietnam’s largest island. About the size of Singapore, teardrop-shaped Phu Quoc is actually closer to the Cambodian mainland (15km/9mi) than the Vietnamese mainland (45km/28mi). Blessed with 150km (93mi) of gorgeous coastline, a heavily forested interior (more than half of the island is a national park) and bountiful seafood, it’s also the only place in Vietnam where tourists of any nationality can visit for up to 30 days visa-free.

As such, the Vietnamese government has set its sights on developing the island as a premier beach playground with excellent roads, a wide range of accommodation and dining options, and lots of tourist attractions. The island is home to about 146,000 permanent residents and hosts 3-5 million visitors annually. If you’re visiting Phu Quoc for the first time, here’s everything you need to know.

When should I go to Phu Quoc?

Tropical Phu Quoc basically has just two seasons: six months of dry, sunny weather between November and April and six months of rain between May and October. During the wet season, southwestern monsoons bring frequent and sometimes heavy rain interspersed with sunny patches. If you choose to go during the rainy season, consider a hotel with a swimming pool to duck out for quick swims in between rain showers.

Phu Quoc also has a trash problem, producing more waste (on average 190 tons per day) than the island can process (typically by landfill or burning). Around October and November, northeast winds are known to wash garbage from fishing boats, the island itself, and other places around the Gulf of Thailand onto Phu Quoc’s eastern beaches. Most mid-to-high-end hotels and resorts do a good job of cleaning their own beaches, but the issue is something to consider.

How much time should I spend in Phu Quoc?

If you’re looking for a quick beach break to perhaps end your trip to Vietnam, three days are enough to see the island’s highlights while getting in some R&R. Those looking to spend more time than that should consider breaking up their trip into two parts: a few nights in Duong Dong (the main town) and a few nights at the Vinpearl complex to the north – with its amusement park, safari, and Venice-inspired Grand – or to the south with its beautiful beaches.

Is it easy to get in and around Phu Quoc?

There are direct domestic flights to/from Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Hai Phong as well as some larger cities in the region including Seoul, Taipei and Bangkok. Flights from Ho Chi Minh City take just an hour. There are also ferries from Ha Tien or Rach Gia in the Mekong Delta.

From the airport to the main town of Duong Dong is a short 15-20 minute ride (14km/9mi). Most hotels will include at least a one-way transfer; otherwise, taxis are cheap and plentiful. If you’re staying right in the center of Duong Dong, there’ll likely be restaurants, spas and shops within walking distance. Taxi or ride-hailing apps (Grab and XanhSM) for short distances (eg. to the Phu Quoc night market) should only cost a few dollars. However, longer distances can add up. If you’re licensed to ride a motorbike, scooters are available for rent.

Top things to do in Phu Quoc

Go on an island-hopping snorkeling tour

Incredibly value-priced, full-day snorkeling tours typically visit two to three islands with time for snorkeling, swimming and relaxing on the beach. You can usually fish along the way (although with just a spool of line and a baited hook rather than a fishing rod). Lunch is a raucously fun affair served family-style with your fellow day trippers. At this price point, be prepared to share a full boat. Other options include visiting more islands, going in a smaller group, or ending up on Pineapple Island and returning to the main island via cable car. John’s Tours is a popular tour operator.

Take the cable car to an amusement park on Pineapple Island

The trip to Pineapple Island (Hon Thom in Vietnamese) takes about 15 minutes to cover the nearly 8km (5mi) distance via the world’s longest non-stop three-rope cable car. The views over fishing boats and forested islands alone are worth the price of admission. On the island, a family-friendly day awaits with water slides, a wooden roller coaster, an observation deck and more. Sea walking, paragliding, and kayaking are available for an extra fee.

Be transported to the Amalfi Coast at Sunset Town

Opened at the end of 2023, Sunset Town recreates a slice of the Italian coast on tropical Phu Quoc. While it sounds completely kitschy (the façade of the cable car station looks like Rome’s Coliseum), the town is surprisingly well done, complete with pastel-colored houses and terracotta tile roofs, cobblestone lanes, and cute boutiques and cafes. In addition to the surreal setting, the draw here is its plethora of tourist attractions, including the Kiss Bridge, a nightly fireworks show, free water puppet shows and street performances, a beachfront night market, and the multi-sensory Kiss of the Sea show with acrobatics, pyrotechnics and lights projected onto falling curtains of water.

Visit some of the region’s best beaches

Phu Quoc has nearly two dozen beaches – some of the best in Vietnam – ranging from the wild and secluded to picture-perfect stretches of powdery sand bordered by clear, turquoise waters. Two of the best are in the island's southeast. Sao Beach is home to restaurants and beach clubs, making it popular with tour groups who usually pour onto the sand just before noon for a few hours. To avoid the crowds, go early or walk north towards the clubs and either rent a (rather expensive) chair or lay a towel down. The next beach over, Kem Beach (also spelled Khem), is quieter. There’s a section with public access next to Premier Residences Phu Quoc Emerald Bay, but if you’re a beach lover, consider splurging for a few nights at one of the nicer hotels on this stunning ribbon of beach.

Sample some of Phu Quoc's specialties on an island tour

Phu Quoc has a surprising number of specialties for being such a small island. Tours of the southern part of the island typically visit a sim wine factory (a sweet liquor made from the fruit of the rose myrtle), a pepper farm (expect to see strands of fresh peppercorns in stir-fries), a pearl farm where the process of cultivating pearls is explained, and a fish sauce factory (Phu Quoc fish sauce is prized throughout Vietnam). Drive through the national forest in the island’s northern end to sample local honey and a seafood lunch.

Catch an amazing sunrise or sunset

The Emerald Island is known for its sunrises and sunsets, often featuring flaming oranges, pinks and purples. Wake up early on the east coast to catch the sunrise or head to the west coast for brilliant sunsets. Any spot on the beach will do, but the views from INK 360 on the 19th floor of the InterContinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort are unbeatable. Go early for a cocktail inside the spectacularly whimsical Ashley Sutton-designed, Jules Vern-esque bar enveloped by giant octopus tentacles before heading out to the terrace in time for sunset.

My favorite thing to do in Phu Quoc

After a day swimming in the sea, there’s nothing I love more than sitting down to a meal of fresh seafood cooked to order. You’ll find a few seafood joints at the night market, but visiting Vietnamese tend to favor a row of seafood restaurants in the fishing village of Ham Ninh or the more conveniently located Nhà hàng hải sản Làng Cá Phú Quốc right in town. Pick your proteins from the tanks filled with live seafood and have it cooked to order. I like my shrimp stir-fried with Phu Quoc peppercorns or steamed in beer, while crab gets the wok treatment in a tangy tamarind sauce.

How much money do I need for Phu Quoc?

Since it’s an island, expect prices to be 10-20% higher than the mainland. ATMs can be found in the main town, higher-end hotels and at tourist attractions. Smaller restaurants and convenience stores only take cash.

• Four-seater taxi from the airport to Duong Dong: 200,000d (US$8)

• Taxi from Duong Dong to VinWonders Phu Quoc (per way): 350,000d (US$14)

• Taxi from Duong Dong to Sunset Town (per way): 280,000d (US$11)

• Full-day island-hopping and snorkeling tour with lunch: 635,000d (US$25)

• Cable car to Pineapple Island with buffet lunch: 1,000,000d (US$39) for adults and 650,000d (US$25) for kids under 1.4m

• Seafood meal: 250,000d (US$10)

• Beach chair rental at Sao Beach: 500,000d (US$20)

• Basic room for two (not on the beach): 500,000d (US$20)

• Motorbike rental per day: 150,000d (US$6)

• Cocktail at a beach club: 180,000d (US$7)

• Seafood fried rice: 80,000d (US$3)

• Local beer at a beach bar: 40,000 (US$1.50)