A first-time guide to Grenada's Spicemas

The fetes, the music, the colors, the oil – every year, Grenada’s biggest celebration draws thousands of revelers to its shores for Spicemas, the Caribbean nation's very own version of Carnival.

During the final days of what is a five-month-long celebration, the population of the Spice Island balloons from 11,000 to around 20,000 people. If you’ve seen the videos and photos and dreamed of being part of this magnificent party – coating yourself in black oil or donning a glittery costume and dancing on the road – we've got all the information you need to make it happen. Start planning your trip now with our first-time guide to being part of Spicemas in Grenada.

When is Spicemas?

Spicemas season officially kicks off in April with fetes (parties), musical competitions and a traditional mas (masquerade) parade featuring Spicemas characters like the Vieux Corps (people dressed in black gowns, hats, wooden shoes and painted face masks), the Jab Jab (oil-covered figures with horns and chains), Moko Jumbies (performers on stilts) and the Shortknee (revelers donning painted wire masks and colorful polka-dotted costumes who carry powder).

This is a gradual build-up to the biggest events that happen during the first two weeks of August, capped off with a Carnival Tuesday celebration. Masqueraders, resplendent in barely there costumes, trail large, slow-moving trucks equipped with massive sound systems, pumping out soca music through the streets of Grenada.

It can sometimes feel like pure mayhem, but the collective joy of the crowd – many Grenadians come home for the event – is infectious.

When should I start planning for Spicemas?

Right now! Spicemas isn’t an event you can just attend on a whim or last minute with a group of friends. Veteran Spicemas attendees book hotels, costumes and plane tickets months in advance. If you don’t follow suit, you’ll have to spend a lot more than you planned to or potentially miss out entirely.

Unless you know a Grenadian who can shepherd you through the process, the best organization to follow for important dates about band launchings (when the year’s costumes are unveiled) or ticket sales is the Spicemas Corporation. For more general tourism questions, follow the Grenada Tourism Authority.

When is hurricane season?

Hurricane season in the Caribbean traditionally runs from June to November. Aside from monitoring the forecast, signing up for travel insurance will protect you from major calamities.

How long should I stay in Grenada for Spicemas?

Ideally a week. There are a host of events leading up to Carnival Tuesday, like the Soca Monarch competition (held on Carnival Friday and showcases the biggest names in the Grenadian soca music scene), the Panorama (steelpan) competition on Carnival Saturday and Calypso Monarch on Sunday.

If you're short on time, you can pack a lot into four days. Arrive on Carnival Sunday, take part in J’ouvert, Carnival Monday and Tuesday, and fly home on Wednesday. This schedule isn’t for the faint of heart and allows little room for unforeseen issues, but it can be done.

Is it easy to get around Grenada during Spicemas?

This is the biggest event in the country, so expect crowds and traffic around the bigger events and venues. Arriving early and leaving early could cut down on traffic time, but hordes of people and cars are just part of the deal during Spicemas.

Pre-booking a car service is the best way to lighten your transportation burden and it means there’s never any scrambling at the end of the night to find a taxi among throngs of other people.

Outside of typical taxi services, some car companies, like Royalty Taxi Services, also provide private half-day or full-day tours of the island. Trips start at EC$40 and increase based on distance and time, but it's an added expense you won’t regret.

Top things to do during Spicemas

The best part about Spicemas is the sheer variety of events around the country. Of course, fetes and concerts are a major draw, but there are other slower-paced activities to enjoy before the big Carnival days.

Spend time beyond the parties

Amidst all the action and revelry, take some time to enjoy what the country offers outside of Spicemas events. Going on an island tour to places like Fort Frederick or the Belmont Estate gives you the perfect glimpse into Grenadian history.

For something a bit more outdoorsy, book an excursion with a diving/snorkeling outfitter and visit the internationally renowned underwater sculpture park in Molinière Bay. If you fancy limbering up for Carnival, go for a hike at Grand Etang National Park.

Attend Soca Monarch or Panorama

Don't worry if you're not familiar with Soca music before either of these events, you’ll be fully in the rhythm after Soca Monarch or Panorama.

Soca Monarch is a huge competition featuring some of the country’s biggest soca artists. It features massive stage pieces and high-energy, choreographed dances, particularly when the competition shifts to the power soca category (a faster-paced style of music). The crowd (including you!) plays just as big a part in the concert as the performers themselves as they play off the musicians’ commands to jump, wave a rag, or move from left to right.

There are fireworks, confetti and fire (yes, actual fire in the crowd courtesy of spray cans and a lighter, but everyone is cool with it) – it’s an awesome sight to behold. If you’re not sweating, you’re not doing it right.

Held the following day, Panorama is also a musical competition. It’s a little slower-paced and the crowd skews a bit older, but if you have just a little knowledge of the steel pan, this event is a perfect re-introduction.

So many of us are used to a solo performer tapping out melodies on a single pan but Panorama is a large group of performers playing on an array of steel pans. The complex rhythms, melodies and showmanship of the musicians will give you a newfound appreciation for the instrument.

Ticket prices for Soca Monarch are EC$60 (early bird); EC$75 (regular price); and EC$100 (at the door). Ticket prices for Panorama are EC$50 (early bird); EC$65 (regular price); and EC$10 (children).

Try the national dish, oil down

Though it’s the national dish, oil down is a seasonal stew that typically contains breadfruit, ground provisions, callaloo (dasheen leaf), pigtails, chicken, coconut milk and spices.

Most Grenadians aren’t going to take you to any old place to try it. They are quite particular about getting oil down right, so unless breadfruit (a major ingredient in the stew) is in season when you visit, you’re not getting a taste. But that just gives you a reason to come back!

Luckily, August falls in oil down season. Some great places to enjoy the dish include Wild Orchid Restaurant at Annandale Waterfall (make sure to call ahead to order), Country Kitchen, Nutmeg Restaurant and The Ants Nest.

Go to fetes

Let's face it, this is the real reason we’re all here. Spicemas parties can be glamorous, all-inclusive events with color-coordinated dress codes like Pinknic, Pier 57 or Ultra Gold. The venues are typically elaborately decorated (lots of Instagram-worthy spots) and offer a host of food and drink options.

If you'd prefer a laidback scene, you can rock up to more casual events like Rum Boat or Legend Killa Day in shorts and sneakers. However, no matter the event (fancy or casual), expect to jump up to soca music and have a fun-filled evening. Again, if you’re not sweating, you’re not doing it right!

Ticket prices for all-inclusive events can range from EC$473-1351, while tickets to non-inclusive fetes can start at EC$135.

My favorite Spicemas event

Though I love getting my makeup done and wearing a pretty costume, there’s something about J'ouvert's messiness that I especially enjoy. Whether it’s mud, paint or powder, the more I’m covered, the happier I am.

In Grenada, it’s all about the oil – black oil. Traditionalists coat their bodies in motor oil (after liberally coating themselves in baby oil), but an alternative for those with sensitive skin is a mixture of charcoal and oil.

The darkened skin is part of the rebellion, with origins dating back to the time of emancipation from enslavement. The main symbol of Grenada’s J’Ouvert is the Jab Jab, the ultimate symbol of resistance and freedom. Colonizers who once deemed Black people devils and used their skin color as a reason to subjugate and enslave them are mocked during this celebration.

On the day (starting very early in the morning), Grenadians welcome us to darken our skin, wear devil horns and pull large chains through the street to ridicule a system built to demean and destroy. Yes, there’s music and partying as you walk down the streets of Grenada, but the roots of resistance and disruption should never be forgotten.

How much money do I need for Spicemas?

How much money you need will depend on the activities you want to do. Most of your budget will go towards plane tickets, hotels and your Carnival costume – all items that need to be purchased well before you set off to Grenada.

Truthfully, this isn’t an inexpensive experience but the key is planning ahead. That way, you can spread out payments and not feel the burden in one hit. Like any major event around the world, prices increase during Spicemas.

USD is widely accepted on the island but you'll most likely get your change in ECD. Though places like your hotel are likely to take cards, cash is still king around most of the country.

• Hotel room (Sandals all-inclusive resort): EC$11,256

• Spicemas costume: EC$1351 (starting point but additions increase the cost)

• Cup of coffee/cocoa tea: EC$5.40-13.50

• Grenada flag (to wave): EC$13.50

• Dinner for two: EC$45-135

• Rum punch at the bar EC$13.50-19

Top tips for a Spicemas trip

Book a makeup appointment

Admittedly, this is a splurge. A two-day Spicemas makeup appointment can run as high as EC$1215. The true benefit of getting your makeup professionally done has less to do with the style or color (though that will look stunning), but the application.

These makeup artists make sure that no matter how much you sweat (and I’m a sweaty girl), that makeup will stay in place. On this trip, I used the services of Chandini Bhagwandeen of Faces of Bella Rouge and I looked stunning.

Pack clothes you don’t mind leaving behind

Expect to bid farewell to the clothes you wear to J’Ouvert – the oil is plentiful and it will get everywhere. The same consideration should be given to sneakers.

Jab Jab spares nothing, so don’t carry anything too precious. Make sure to bring a protective cover for your phone or camera, you’ll want lots of pictures and video. Oh, and don’t forget a scarf for your hair.

Don’t forget the baby oil, a sponge and dish soap

Jab Jab is all fun and games until it’s time to remove that oil. The best way (and dare I say the Grenadian way) is to combine a handful of sand from the beach and mix it with dish soap (I’m partial to Dawn). The sandy mixture is an excellent exfoliant and comes off easily when you jump into the ocean to wash off.

This is the first step of the oil removal process. You won’t be able to get all the sensitive spots (and yes, oil will get there). In the shower, use a sponge and more dish soap to get thoroughly clean.

Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate

The rum will be flowing and Grenadian rum is particularly potent, especially in the heat. If you don’t remember to have a few sips (or full gulps) of water, you won’t make it. I always get a cup full of ice at events to keep cool and ensure I’m getting water at all times.

You are not going to get much sleep

The sooner you accept that, the easier it will be to just keep moving. Allow the healing powers of soca music (and maybe a little rum) to keep you moving.

Alicia Johnson traveled to Grenada on invitation from Grenada Tourism Board. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.