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For generations, Melburnians have embraced the Mornington Peninsula. Adri Berger/Shutterstock
Just south of Melbourne is a place where the bush meets the sea. For centuries, the Bunurong people have called this place home – and for generations, Melburnians have embraced the Mornington Peninsula as the place to spend long, lazy days barefoot by the beach.
From the heritage charm of the limestone Hotel Sorrento to the boutique vineyards of Red Hill and the old fishing hub of Hastings, the peninsula’s towns and villages each have their own unique identity and microculture. Some visitors come to enjoy a boozy winery lunch with friends, many bring their surfboard and spend a whole weekend chasing waves, and others arrive with their binoculars at the ready for a weekend of walking the trails in search of bright, beautiful parrots and seabirds.
Whether you visit on a day trip, weekend getaway or longer break, you’ll come to see why so many longtime locals swear they’ll never leave. Home to farmers, artists, surfers, winemakers, brewers, millionaire magnates and more, the Mornington Peninsula’s effortless natural beauty is a great equalizer – folks from all walks alike agree this is a very special corner of Australia.
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When should I go to the Mornington Peninsula?
Sure, Melbourne has beaches of its own, but everyone in the know understands that Mornington Peninsula’s 192km coastline is a cut above the city beaches when it comes to waves, water quality and wow factor. That’s why the Morning Peninsula is a popular warm-weather destination to swim, snorkel, surf and bask in the sunshine during spring (September, October, November) and summer (December, January, February).
Summer temperatures regularly reach 40°C (105°F) though, so be sure to pack sunscreen, sunglasses, long-sleeved shirts and a hat – the Aussie sun is unforgiving.
But this summer seaside playground isn’t a one-trick pony. With autumn (March, April, May) and winter (June, July, August) being prime time to warm up in the region’s famous geothermal springs, a trip to the Mornington Peninsula is a top idea all year round.
Depending on when you visit, you’ll likely have very different experiences. Visit in the high summer season, and you’ll undoubtedly be drawn to the beaches along with many other holidaymakers, lining up at ice-cream shops and hanging out in shaded beer gardens as cicadas sound in treetops above.
In the cooler months you’ll want to stay indoors to taste top-notch cool climate drops (this area is known for its pinot noir) at a cellar door (winery tasting room), enjoy a pub meal by an open fire place or spend a day blissing out in your robe at one of the hot springs. There’s always a reason and a season to visit the Mornington Peninsula.
How much time should I spend on the Mornington Peninsula?
An easy one-hour drive southeast from Melbourne (a little more from Melbourne Airport), the Mornington Peninsula is the perfect place for a weekend getaway or whirlwind day trip. If you want an injection of sun, surf, sea and sand, you can easily travel down from Melbourne in the morning, spend the day at the beach and be back in the city in time for dinner.
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Spending a weekend will afford you more time to explore the peninsula’s breweries, wineries, restaurants, hot springs and walking trails. To really decompress, spend a full week here enjoying slow-paced pursuits like sunrise beach walks, long lunches at vineyard restaurants and twilight bathing at the hot springs.
Is it easy to get in and around the Mornington Peninsula?
To make the most of your time in the Mornington Peninsula, you’ll need a vehicle. Sure, there are a few bus routes and a short stretch of train track, but services are limited and don’t cover most of the terrain you’ll want to explore. All of the region’s villages, towns and beaches are spread out, so a car really is essential to getting around.
From Melbourne, take the M1 (Monash Freeway) then the M11 (Peninsula Link), and you’ll reach the Mornington Peninsula in about 60-80 minutes, depending on traffic. Road tripping from the Great Ocean Road or Geelong? Drive straight onto the ferry at Queenscliff, and in 40 minutes you’ll be in the beachside town of Sorrento at the southern end of the Mornington Peninsula.
No vehicle? No worries. Booking a day tour from Melbourne is a smart way to experience a hassle-free trip with a guide and driver taking care of the logistics. Wild Adventures Melbourne run action-packed daytrips for nature enthusiasts keen to get stuck into some snorkeling, hiking and stand-up paddleboarding (with some wine tasting and hot springs bathing for good measure too). Just interested in the food and wine scene? Book a day trip with Vinetrekker to taste drops at local greats like Ten Minutes by Tractor and enjoy lunch at Merricks General Store, a local landmark dating back to the early 1920s.
Top things to do on the Mornington Peninsula
Soak in the springs
Bathing in mineral-rich, geothermal waters sourced from underground aquifers is having a real moment in Victoria thanks to places like Peninsula Hot Springs and Alba Thermal Springs and Spa, both standout stops on the Great Victorian Bathing Trail. When it opened back in 2005, Peninsula Hot Springs’ bush-fringed baths were a real gamechanger, reinvigorating bathing culture in Australia. Today, visitors can choose from more than 70 bathing and wellness experiences inspired by rituals from all corners of the globe, including an underground sauna, hammam and cave pool. Just down the road, the new kid on the block Alba leans into brutalism, with its looming grand entryway, clean lines and statement spiral staircase. Here you can dip in and out of 22 geothermal pools, a steam room and sauna. Looking for some privacy? Book The Terrace to kick back for 45 heavenly minutes in a private pool.
Get acquainted with Australia's wildlife
Hoping to see some kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, emus and koalas? Put The Briars in Mount Martha on your agenda. There’s a good chance you’ll be able to spot some of Australia’s most recognisable marsupials and birds in the woodlands and wetlands of this 230-hectare conservation park and wildlife sanctuary. Most wild animals are cautious around humans, so tip the odds in your favor by walking quietly along the trails (stray from the path into the scrub and you’ll likely end up in snake territory). Don’t forget to look up towards the tree canopy – you’re more likely to see a koala clinging onto a tree branch than on the ground.
Don’t snooze on the aquatic wildlife here either. Dolphins, seals and whales can be found along the coast, so if you’re game, book a wildlife cruise with an eco-certified operator to see Australian fur seals and bottlenose dolphins in their natural habitat.
Visit an art gallery with a difference at Point Leo Sculpture Park
This award-winning vineyard and al fresco art gallery proves that art plus wine is a winning combination. Here you can take your time to wander through 330 acres of manicured gardens to find your favorite sculpture from standout works by global creative heavyweights, including Japanese nonagenarian Yayoi Kusama and celebrated American sculptor KAWS. Make a day of it and dine at one of the estate’s restaurants. If fine dining is your thing, go all-in on the signature menu at Laura to be treated to truly inventive cuisine from Catalonian culinary director Josep Espuga whose Michelin-star pedigree really comes to the fore.
Make wholesome food discoveries
Tap into the good old-fashioned joy of connecting with independent growers and small producers by visiting the region’s farm gates, markets, tap rooms and more than 60 cellar doors. Pick up some zesty "beach buns" at Flinders Sourdough, try some farm-grown apple pie at fifth generation, family-owned Mock Orchards and buy punnets of juicy, sweet, just-picked berries at Rocky Creek Strawberry Farm - there’s gastronomic gold to be found down many farm lanes and dirt tracks. For your caffeine fix, make a beeline for Little Rebel cafe and roastery in Dromana, home to a coffee vending machine which dispenses bags of top-quality coffee beans day and night.
Take to the skies on the Arthurs Seat Eagle
Get a fresh perspective by hopping aboard the Arthurs Seat Eagle gondola for a slow ride over the treetops where serene views over Port Phillip Bay will provide an instant mood lift. You might see some kangaroos below too.
My favorite thing to do on the Mornington Peninsula
A bushwalk (that’s Australian for “hike”) followed by a swim is a great Australian pastime that can’t be beaten. The 5.4km Bushrangers Bay hike has everything you need for a blockbuster bushwalk: sweeping ocean views, dramatic basalt cliffs, native wildlife aplenty and even a picture-perfect lighthouse to cap it all off. The treacherous shores of Bushrangers Bay make swimming a no-no, but thankfully there’s a bonanza of beaches to choose from on the peninsula. From checking out Ranelagh Beach’s bright, multi-colored beach boxes to hopping around the rockpools during low tide at Sorrento Ocean Beach, the Mornington Peninsula’s beaches are a big drawcard for visitors, especially during scorching summer days. If you’re into chasing waves, the surf breaks at Gunnamatta Beach and St Andrews Beach should give you plenty to work with. As the name implies, Safety Beach is a better swimming spot as it’s sheltered, while Mount Martha Beach is a great option for travelers with disabilities as special beach wheelchairs that float are available on the weekend. Whether you’re into a peaceful morning paddle, a day on your board chasing the perfect wave or an afternoon beachcombing for seaglass, getting a dose of vitamin sea is a must when visiting the Mornington Peninsula.
How much money do I need for the Mornington Peninsula?
Many cashed-up Melburnians have a second home in the Mornington Peninsula, so expect to see plenty of Porsches (especially on the weekends when the wealthy folks make their exodus from Melbourne to retreat to their pads in Portsea). With this in mind, the Mornington Peninsula isn’t a cheap destination, but having a great time without a big budget is still absolutely possible. If you’re watching your wallet, sidestep the luxury accommodation and bougie wine bars and stick with tried-and-true, simple pursuits like beach dips, bushwalks and fish and chips by the sea at sunset.
Pint of Pacific Ale at Jetty Road Brewery in Dromana: $14
Entry to Point Leo Estate Sculpture Park: $15
Return trip on the Arthurs Seat Eagle gondola: $30.90
Night Owl bathing experience at Alba: $95
Two-hour group surf lesson with Salty Surf School: $73
Non-powered camp site: $23-63 per night depending on the season
Where is there to stay on the Mornington Peninsula?
Depending on your budget, there’s plenty of options, ranging from pitching a tent at a camping ground to staying in an eco-lodge in nature or bedding down in a luxe hotel surrounded by vineyards. For a winery stay that ticks all the boxes (sprawling gardens, fine dining restaurant and spacious rooms with earthy touches) base yourself at the heavenly Lancemore Lindenderry to wake up to tranquil views of the estate in the morning and enjoy a refined culinary experience at The Dining Room by night. Unsurprisingly, the wine list here is a jackpot for cool climate vino lovers.
Another option? After spending the day blissing out in geothermal waters, there’s nothing better than retreating to your accommodation without having to hit the road. At Peninsula Hot Springs you can glamp in a tent with all the trimmings (including a king bed and heated flooring) or sleep overnight in a luxe eco-lodge, while Alba’s new rooms and standalone villas are a masterclass in minimalism, offering a space of quiet luxury to guests keen on cocooning in a stripped back space.
Looking for an easy, breezy beach pad that won’t break the bank? The Keith Motel is a fun slice of retro by the sea, perfectly positioned between the coastal enclaves of Rye and Capel Sound.
Swim between the flags
Worried about sharks? There’s actually a much bigger threat lurking just beneath the surface. Rips (strong currents) are the biggest hazard on Australian beaches. Before running headlong into the surf, keep in mind that this epically beautiful corner of Australia also recently recorded the highest number of drownings in Victoria, with many of the victims from overseas. The Mornington Peninsula Water Safety Alliance recommends swimming between the red and yellow flags at patrolled beaches and checking the depth before jumping off piers. Before you arrive, download the handy Beachsafe app to find out about local water hazards and check which beaches are patrolled by local surf lifesavers so you can savor the peninsula’s beaches in the safest way possible.
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