The place that really put Phong Nha on the map, the relaxed Farmstay enjoys peaceful views overlooking an ocean of rice paddies. Rooms are smallish but neat, with high ceilings and shared balconies. The excellent bar-restaurant serves Asian and Western dishes, and there's a social vibe, with movies and live music several nights a week. Local tours are superb (with free sidecar rides).
The rides are in decommissioned ex-army Russian motorbike sidecars. The family rooms sleeps up to five. Ask about the Farmstay Village program, where you can spend the night in accommodation provided by local families nearby. Bikes are free, with handy downloadable maps. The Chef's Table is every Tuesday and Friday evening, with a set menu of Vietnamese specialities. Find the Farmstay in Cu Nam village, 9km east of Son Trach. Free shuttles also run between various points from the farmstay.