Madame Lan

In this huge restaurant in a French colonial-style building you can eat in an open courtyard or in one of the river-facing dining rooms. The menu has lots of alluring choices, including bun cha cua (crab sausage noodle soup), hu tieu bo kho (vermicelli with stewed beef), bun cha (vermicelli with pork), squid with chilli and salt, and green papaya salad with shrimp and garlic.